Thank you Andrew
The link you provided has gor me on the research path and I’m getting the general idea.
Unfortunately I spent my fun coupons getting the nikon and lense and put off buying a new chainsaw till autumn, but the starter kit options look reasonably priced to get the experiment started.
I’ll look at the nm range of filters (visual effect) and resolution options for print size to begin with as I supose thats important and then check for aberations and other limitations to build a shortlist.
I supose the non raw option and limits on custom settings would mostly concern an experienced photographer but myself as an amateur may have enough to keep me busy and produce something worthwhile.
Pete, an IR camera which does not shoot raw is a non-starter and will disappoint you very soon. I have no idea what your budget is and what you consider to be low-cost but when I was shopping for a full-spectrum camera I chose to source an older and cheaper body that uses the same lens mount as my regular camera. I ended up buying a Pentax K-3 for very little and having it converted in Germany also didn’t cost me an arm and a leg.
After starting to shoot, I quickly found out which of my lenses were hotspot-free and sharp under various IR filter situations and wavelengths. I also ended up buying a few older lenses simply because they were decent performers and share the same filter size so I can use my filter range across all of them which, in turn, saves a lot of money.
And as to mirrorless being the holy grail for IR: I use my K-3 in live view mode with the OVF permanently covered and using an LCD loupe which effectively turns a DSLR into a mirrorless.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen an infrared OOC jpeg which turned out half-decent. There’s just not enough data in them to make processing worthwhile and the OOC results are mostly useless.
Mike
Thank you
I will have to look at the terms you use to get familiar with the specifics, but I get your general points on image quality and kit.
There seems to be little point in taking a step if it wont make a difference.
I spoke with a lady at a photographers business yesterday at the town nearest to me and she recommended I speak to a camera specialist in the nearest city. I think they also would probably ship the camera for conversion. Do you think it would be just as easy to go directly to the conversion specialist myself…Once I understand what I’m asking for.
I hate talking ‘Budget’ as it can create a false economy but I wasn’t planning on another camera hunt so soon after buying the nikon.
I’m totally impressed by the IR, esp the 720nm and it seems so suitable to my end use.
Thank you for your input, its much appreciated and your work is very inspirational.
He has ample explanations about all of the terminology and also English language youtube tutorials. (besides running conversions en selling IR filters)
Hi Mike
May I ask, If you had not bought the Full-spectrum version and perhaps chosen only the 720nm, would the range and quality of your results have been much more limited.
That is a somewhat silly question, so if I may put it another way…I you had your twenty most favorite IR images hanging on a wall, how many of them would be in 720nm range.
I am mostly considering the option of 720nm or monochrome as it’s processing is simpler for a begginer, and the laser software converts everything to greyscale or dither anyway, although the colour IR even when converted for engraving could possibly provide a better tonal range.
I have seen a Lumix DCM- G1 full frame body at a very reasonable price and am awaiting details of it specific conversion type. I have also viewed the other kit you spoke of as well as a Led IR 850nm external light for indoor use and outside low light situations.
I can be very clear on that. Yes, I would have been limited to the extreme. The 720 gives quite a harsh IR result because most of the visible light doesn’t get through. Especially with foliage, the outcome is often a bit too graphical and unnatural, almost like a negative.
I feel I can now match the look I want very easily by simply swapping a lens filter. Most of the lenses which have proven to be solid IR performers without loss of detail and with minimal hot spots happen to be primes with a common filter thread of 49mm. That makes it easy for me to carry a full range of filters with me when I’m out shooting IR.
Most of my zoom lenses are not particularly good in IR which is probably true of most zoom lenses in general because of the many reflective surfaces and internal coatings.
The Lumix DCM- G1 is definitely NOT a full frame camera, its M4/3 sensor is an older type and small so it cause quite a bit of image noise which shows up quickly under IR. Or are you confused between the terminology of “full frame” and “full spectrum” which are two entirely different things?
I would strongly recommend you do NOT spend money of a fixed-wavelength conversion!
Hi Mike
I think I became a bit confused about the G1 after reviewing so many makes and models and the upside and downside to choosing based on budget. Thank you for the ‘Heads Up!’
I will probably not convert my d610 nikon and have been looking at the Sony A7ii and some full frame Cannon EOS M series. I am also paying attention to suppliers and will opt for someone dependable.
I would like to jump in quick and cheap but that would restrict the work size and lead to disappointment eventually.
I will bide my time and follow your suggestions as I keep learning a little more each day. My processing knowledge is also improving and I am finding out about IR flash and seperate lighting and how to use the images to best effect on my materials.