I shoot product photos on the same backdrop with the same lights, and series of collages on the same wooden panels, etc. But I’m doing it on different days, and I’m using compact fluorescent light boxes, so the color can shift. Do y’all have strategies for matching color and tone in Darktable? I tried using the Composite node to overlay a sample to try to match, but adjustments affect the composited photo as well.
Color calibration can do color matching, darktable user manual - color calibration
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For that approach use a snapshot not an overlay
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I am sure the answer is “I don’t want to buy a color checker” but color calibration makes it really trivial if you have a supported color checker.
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Colour matching looks interesting. If I was shooting an event, could I take an initial image with a colour checker next to something in the area in question, then use that object as the reference for the day’s shooting after I’ve had to remove the colour checker? I think that’s what the manual said.
It’s very useful for location work, where you are in nasty mixed lighting. But also handy when shooting with different cameras. Did a job this week, where I shot my X-rite card around the venue. Made it super easy to remover the colour cast of lights, and match the colour of both cameras.
To get a good match, make sure you get a nice tight, evenly lit shot of the card. Save the calibration as a preset, apply and continue as normal.
Even if the preset isn’t 100% accurate, it usually get you 95% there. I do much less tweaking in colour balance rgb and juggling primaries.
Pro tip: remember to shoot the test card. I so often forget!
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I’m working with old shots right now, but I know I should invest in a color checker for the future. Does it need to be a name brand? Money is tight.
I have this and it works well.
http://greywhitebalancecolourcard.co.uk/2in1.html
These are significantly cheaper ‘alternatives’
The look like clones of the spider color checker I have.
You have potentially two issues here:
- you want to have colours consistent between shoots, in reasonably similar circumstances
- you may need to have colours consistent with an external reference (the product, or another photographer).
For the first, a fairly simple card should work. If the maker of the card is serious about his product, you should get a file with reference values with each card, either corresponding to the print run, or to the individual card (better, but a lot more expensive).
For the second issue, the requirements are stricter: you must have the reference values for the card, and you have to be careful about metamerism (colours appearing identical under one light source, but not under another).