[Play Raw] Positive slide from the sixties

Kudos for the crop!

I’m honored!

Thanks, @chroma_ghost!

@Thomas_Do and @dazedandconfused As a Darktable user, I’m really curious as to how you guys did your renditions. Could you upload the sidecar, and give a brief summary of your workflow (in terms of what each tool was used for).
Thanks in advance.

LightZone’s sidecar files are saved as filename_lzn.jpg, containing the editing data in a jpeg preview (1048 px by default, can be bigger or full-sized, or tiff).

I had problems in darktable, too and used gimp for the initial color correction. Attached you find a sidecar file containing a single tone curve for color correction in darktable. Could be used as a starting point.

IMG761
IMG761.tif.xmp (1.5 KB)

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ohh that’s good to know, thanks man.
I’m afraid that in this case (probably 'cause of the crash) it didn’t save anything - I did search… on the other hand it lead to the other version.

@Claes tak mate

@gadolf you’re most welcome =) Where did your father take the photo?

Vuescan for Linux could be an interesting option if you need to do it quickly (Sorry, I know, isn’t open source). Only 20 seconds to make adjustments.

Nice photo by papa @gadolf!

That gives me an idea… that might not be realized.

What are you talking about? That frame is :dog2:ma!

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The frame it is, but PS… may freak the doggies

Angola outback (somewhere…)

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Tricky indeed!
RT, trial and error.

Gadolf-IMG761.tif.pp3 (10.5 KB)

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I’ll try to attach the xmp file - 7bba1fd5d34242a335fd21f3cc7e29a2bf1efe7c_1_1380x916.jpeg.xmp (7.2 KB)
Hopefully that will give you a history of the corrections in darktable. If not, here is a quick rundown from what I remember:
Initially, I used the colour picker tool on the girl’s hair beads and adjusted the white balance sliders to get close to a white and get rid of the original colour cast. Then went back and forth with the exposure and white balance…desaturated a bit, some more colour correction to try and get rid of the green/red casts, tried vibrance then went back to exposure and white balance before final saturation adjustment. Exported as a 32-bit floating point tiff to GIMP where I again adjusted the saturation to decrease the reddish hue in the girls’ skin tones and added some sharpness. I was going to try removing the green mold and some of the crud in the image but realized I do not have some of the appropriate plug-ins for the new version of GIMP - healing brush would probably work but would take to long. So, off to get some add-ons and plugins!

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Very good case for my color-neutralizer, in the color balance module of darktable. With auto-hue neutralization:

Then tweaked further to my taste:

To remove the mold, the best option I can think of is:

  1. Create an high-pass layer with a radius that matches the mold micelles
  2. Invert that layer
  3. Apply it in subtract mode
  4. Use a parametric masking centered on green
  5. Maybe use a brushed mask to isolate the mold from the grass
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@Thomas_Do Thanks, that’s a pretty simple but highly effective solution! I used it on other scans with the same problem and it just works.

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Here is another version using the latest [RT 5.5 RC1]. I used RGB curves, the Haze removal, Soft light, Film Simulation and Wavelet modules.
IMG761.jpg.out.pp3 (12.1 KB)

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Hi @shreedhar,

I have compared this one with your last development, on Nov 21.
This one has more depth!

Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden

Yeah @Claes, I agree. I think the Haze Removal tool is very useful here.

I wonder if such strong magenta casts were standard for that film. Did people in the dark room regularly have to wrestle with such casts? Or is this the repercussion of time passing or?


IMG761-2.jpg.out.pp3 (11.5 KB)

Morning, Stefan!

Not that I remember :slight_smile: The films were developed using certain processes, like E-6, used for Ektachrome, Fujichrome and other slide (colour reversal) films, or K-14 for Kodachrome, and so on.

That is what I believe.

Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden

Me too. But I have other slides from the same time that still show superb, natural colors. When I brought them to editing, I couldn’t find anything left to do regarding tone mapping. My brother raised a question whether chemicals could react differently depending on the exposure values, for example, under exposed images would degrade faster and maybe present some color cast even from the beginning. Who knows.
Look at this one, from the same time:

EDIT: The Zeiss Contaflex that shot the girls picture is with the third guy from right, who happens to be my father.