If you really are into correcting colors from an old negative, you may face several problems, such as Fuji may have changed the building process, so the film doesn’t react the same way it did. You will also have to somehow compensate for the aging of the negatives, and you will have no control at all over the chemicals used back in the day and in the new developed film (different chemicals, different results).
All in all, what I would do is:
- shoot a target with a fresh film stock, develop it and convert it to a digital image
- develop your shot so all colors are as close as possible to those of the test chart
- save the pp3 of that edit
- load an empty area of the new negative (one area showing the orange color of the negative)
- apply the recently saved pp3
- load an old image (digitized) and apply the saved pp3 from point 3
- focus on the edge of the images (if it is present in the digitized version), or ask for a digitized image of an empty area of the negatives (one area showing the orange color of the negative)
- develop this shot so you have identical results as in your previous empty shot (the one you developed in points 4-5). Save this new pp3
- load a negative image and apply this last pp3: all colors may be realistic, but as there are many involved factors, you will have no guarantee of success. I’m specifically thinking about contrasts, which may not be correct.
I’m not sure if this would help at all, sorry