I didn’t read any replies as upset, but to each their own.
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I am too sensitive, that must be why.
My attention has shifted no to some dust on my sensor, already… I am studying how to clean and preparing a cleaning operation for the near future… like tomorrow or during the week end.
I didn’t mean it that way 
I meant for anyone wanting to become a professional, artist, or just very serious about it. For a casual user he will probably discover those things by instinct anyway, it will just take more time. Nothing wrong with taking the long road.
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hehe no problem I was a relevant comment and in fact it motivated me to study this a bit further. And just thinking about it, it’s true that I share some similarities with a punk. 
I will go visit my local library to get a book on exposure / aperture, from what I saw already, they don’t have understanding exposure.
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I reread 75% of this discussion and took plenty of interesting notes to work with.
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In the library, use the Dewey Decimal Classification. I think the photography books are in the 771 section
Is using the IS on a tripod really a problem? I hear that for the first time and I never had issues with that. However, I also use the tripod not as often as I could, thus maybe on closer inspection of the images I would have noticed that… However, I also did long exposures with an IS lens and the images were sharp. Maybe that also depends on the lens, if IS makes the image blurry when used on a tripod?
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I can’t say for all lenses and all camera bodies, but for the gear I have, sometimes I’ve been able to see the pulsating effects clearly on the LCD.
Oh okay, I’ll check with my stuff too. I can understand how it can happen but never seen it with my lens/body (Canon RP + RF 24-105 f/4).
I finished writing the post on this subject:
Make Photos Sharp From Front To Back With The Hyperfocal Distance And A Wide-Angle Lens
It doesn’t cover anything that isn’t already discussed here, but hopefully is a succinct reference for how to think about focal length, DoF, and landscape shots.
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This book arrived last week and I could not help reading through it, but I am sure that I will read it again and again.
At the moment I feel stuck in my development as a photographer; some of my photos turn out great (for my own taste and purposes) but a lot of them are duds and I could not explain why, and make the process planned instead of accidental. Reading this book I am beginning to understand the reasons; I have the technique under control but without a purpose, it just gives me unmemorable images.
Thank you for recommending the book, I would not trade it for a good prime lens 
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Update: I no longer do this for hyperfocal distance, because I found a way to memorize it easily, which I explain below.
From wikipedia, we know that a good approximation is achieved by
H = \text{hyperfocal distance} \approx \frac{(\text{focal length})^2}{\text{$f$ number} \cdot \text{circle of confusion}}
So I memorize a single number I looked up using a calculator: for micro 4/3, a 25mm lens at f/4 has a hyperfocal distance of about H = 10m (this varies with the circle of confusion you find acceptable, but not much). This is the single number I memorize. The near limit is around half of that, H/2 = 5m.
Then I know that at f/8, this is about H=5m, at f/5.6 it H is about 7m. No need for precise numbers as I am not carrying a laser rangefinder to determine distances anyway, more precision would be illusory.
What about another lens? For a 14mm, 14/25 ≈ 0.5, so I adjust by 0.25, and I get about H=2.5m etc for the hyperfocal distance at f/4. The calculator I used for the original number with the 25mm lens gives 3.2m here, again I don’t need to be very precise. I could stop that 14mm lens down to f/8, and I would get 1.25mm. f/5.6 I interpolate as 1.8m-ish with some simple mental arithmetic.
Or, let’s take a 100mm focal length (I like compression in landscapes). This will multiply my hyperfocal distance by 16, which would give me H=160m, nearest distance is H/2=80m. If there the nearest object is at 40m, I need to stop down to f/6 for that to be acceptably sharp.
To recap: by memorizing a single hyperfocal distance at a given convenient focal length and aperture, I can calculate everything adjusting that by ratios.
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