Essai
Following 2 videos of Harry Durgin… honestly, most of the time I didn’t know what he was doing, lol.
DSCF4614.RAF.xmp (12.6 KB)
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This is what I also mostly did 
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First of all very nice image!
For my processing I didn’ care:
- about noise
- correct processing for good and scientifically correct star images
- realistic brightness
Want I went for:
-
Maximum Impact
Processing:
- Processed two versions in RT, one as is the other with an exposure compensation round about +3.5.
- Imported both into gimp.
- Used mainly the brighter exposure and only masked in the darker one on the tents and surroundings to tone down the lights a little.
- Added contrast curve to only the sky.
- Imported bak into RT to shift the yellows very slightly towards the oranges, for more color contrast.
Done
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First RawTherapee and then used GIMP to darken the areas around the tents where noise was most visible.
DSCF4614.jpg.out.pp3 (12.8 KB)
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You’re probably aware of that, but I think this is the ultimate guide to do nightscapes and astrophotography in FOSS.
As a side note, I’ve never used the dark and flat frames steps, and even so could get interesting results, specially considering that my camera is really low profile.
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( Massively ) edited in Gimp and darktable 
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DSCF4614.RAF.xmp (4,9 KB)
DSCF4614_01b.tif.xmp (9,2 KB)
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This is my attempt in Rawtherapee - I pull latest dev from git hub and compile locally.
I shoot Canon normally and would use the AMaZE + VNG for the demosaicing, but realised it was xtrans when I went to change it.
DSCF4614.jpg.out.pp3 (12.5 KB)
Second image as I revisited it as I was writing this and removed some of the green with the RGB curves.
DSCF4614-1.jpg.out.pp3 (12.6 KB)
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Thanks for the hint. I have seen the article and also tried to do something similar before but could not figure out how to use Siril at that time.
I followed a different approach:
- I took more photos at the place with the stacking idea in mind
- I used Sequator (free but not open source) to stack 5 images to get more details and get rid of some of the noise. Also, it is able to process the sky and background separately so you can skip the blending part of the workflow using Siril.
If anyone is interested and wants to start from the resulting tif file I can upload it, but it has 140Mb, I do not know if I can attach it directly to the thread.
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Really, it isn’t that hard. Besides, if you take those calibration frames (take them once), you’re able to execute sguyader’s script. Provided you have the same folder structure he proposes, the script does all Siril’s work for you. A breeze!
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I feel you and if you slow down video than you don’t understand what is Harry talking.
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I will try that also. Now that the article explains very well how to use Siril, it should be easier. Will post next days the results
If you have the calibration frames, yes, it should.
If not, you could try one of these:
MANUAL
- Skip to step 4;
- skip the Pre-processing part;
- on the File conversion part, instead of loading the fit files, load your raw files;
- Then follow the rest of the instructions
AUTOMATIC
Use one of Siril’s scripts, there’s one out there that’ named
something_noflats_nodarks_nobias. It should do all the stuff.
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Glad to see I’m not the only one! lol
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Best what you can find in Germany is class 3 dark sky and that is about here
Those blue/gray parts are class 3. Wouldn’t be surprised if it is some kind of swamp unusable because of high humidity. Source is this website
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Thanks for the tips.
The best I can find around München is this:
and I find it good enough, you can see the milky way with your own eyes 
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You are welcome. Guess light pollution filter will help. If you are into hiking there is class 2 close to Schladming, Austria. I have class 2 on 200 km and class 1 on 400km. Though going into wasteland at night is not very safe.
Alone I set out on the road
The flinty path is sparkling in the mist 
I’ve written a blog post about the basics last year:
https://blog.pixelbook.org/2018/09/night-photography-image-processing-using-darktable/
Replace base curve with filmic now
About taking the pictures: You camera for sure has ISO in-variance, find out when the ISO ramp changes for your camera and then shoot with that ISO. I take night pictures as ISO640, it switches to a different pitch at that ISO.
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