Raw Photo Editing in ART (screencasts)

Really really nice thread i’ll try to contribute too soon!

Is there an explanation of the various sliders in the log tone mapping tool?

I used to use only dynamic range compression, which one should be preferred?

Tya.

Here’s another edit of an HDRmerge file with low light and a rising sun. I can say that it is very nice to work with ART rawconverter. Selecting photos based on metadata also works much better than with a database (But it does have a disadvantage: I’ve forgotten how working with DT went :slight_smile: However, there is one thing that I find easier in DT, and that is perspective correction )

https://youtu.be/Iuo13ckuC5c

Whatever works :slightly_smiling_face: there’s really no single answer, it depends both on the image and on your goal. The dynamic range compression tool is really good at, well, compressing large dynamic ranges while preserving details/local contrast, but it can sometimes result in a sort of “artificial” look (which is a bit vague/hard to pinpoint, at least for me). The log tone mapping can be a bit more “natural looking”, but it’s not so effective at correcting harsh pictures with deep shadows and very bright highlights. But these are just general feelings, you really have to try and see…

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@Ramana I’m surprised you say you find the perspective correction is easier in dt, as the ART version was ported from dt with a couple of tweeks. I personally find little difference.
Take care.

I noticed a difference with the control points. Especially with a photo with a wide-angle lens, a low horizon and e.g. a mill in the right corner: the mill is skewed. With both DT and ART I can straighten the mill with the control points, however in DT the horizon remains as it was, in ART the mill is straightened but the horizon is skewed. If I put the horizon horizontal again, the mill is skewed again.

And would be a great basis for visual documentation/manual.

Here’s a new episode, with film negatives (taken from this play raw):

And here’s the result:

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This is great as always @agriggio.
I was interested in how you were doing your white balance using the person’s shorts. I assume you know they are supposed to be white and that you were entering values to get the RGB values the same. How did you come up with the multipliers? Is it just experience for what you think you need to enter?

Interestingly, the original print had cropped out the person. Without the shorts to use as reference white, how would you go about setting the white balance? This is always my biggest challenge with neg conversion.

Please make a repository with these episodes as video tutorials. There is great stuff here. It’s so more useful that usual videos on this subject…

Loved the last one.

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Well,.you just read the numbers and adjust the multipliers to bring them in the ballpark, and then fine-tune from there. But that’s a rather convoluted way, I just wanted to show that it’s possible to do it “by hand”. You can also use the picker in the wb tool directly to obtain the same effect.

That would make it more difficult, I agree. I guess you would need to go by experience and/or by eye… I don’t know of another way, sorry.

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I have pinned the thread so it’s easier to find

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I have tried to make a screencast with audio, let me know!! :rofl: Sorry for my english!

Super!

I have a question: if for example i would like to remove some grain only for the sky? Smoothing with my noisy images leaves much artifacts, so i usually choose gimp with gmic and bilateral filtering if there aren’t clouds, or anisotropic-ian fast denoise if there are.

I don’t know, I guess it depends on your taste… for me something like this could work (though the original grain doesn’t disturb me):


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I have looked at the documentation for RT and played a little bit with sharpening in ART but I can’t get good results. For the most part it seems the default settings and most changes I make produce some artifacts. Mainly with the RLdeconvolution sharpening. Is there a video you are aware of or some documentation that describes this sharpening. It is the default so I am assuming is preferred to USM??

Any tips or help…I’ll dig up a couple of examples when I am at my PC and edit this post…

@Andy_Astbury1 Did you ever do a run through on this type of sharpening. I took a quick look through your capture sharpening and denoise videos but I didn’t see one…doesn’t mean it wasn’t there?? THX

Thx

Hi,

I’ll do my best, but please share an example – thanks!

THX no urgency at all. I am busy for a bit with work but I will try to get a couple of examples…I get these sort of rice shaped noise amplification (??) that might also be haloed a bit. I have tried to offset it with some luma noise reduction but not with good result…Impulse noise reduction cranked up does seem to target it but again then I am not nice and sharp…

Thanks for your response…I love the flat field application for the gain map in my pixel smartphone. The images are heavily vingetted without it …it is really a nice fix for the initial images

ART 1.93…

Image is a DNG taken on my smartphone…just a quick snap…I should look at other images and see if maybe its just the these…in any case I zoomed in quite a lot to show you the result of default RL sharpening and this is more or less the type of thing I see.

Off

ON

Thanks, but do you have something that you can share?
Anyway, sharpening and noise don’t really play well together – in fact, I normally don’t sharpen noisy pictures. And I’m generally very conservative with my sharpening settings so I’m probably not the best judge of what is a good default…