@dtorop added contrib/fujifilm_dynamic_range.lua to set the exposure based on the exposure bias.
https://darktable-org.github.io/luadocs/lua.scripts.manual/scripts/contrib/fujifilm_dynamic_range/
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@priort and @davidvj, thanks for the clarification. I was familiar with how to use auto-presets and it sounds like this is very similar, though with the option to apply a module with adjusted settings but disabled which is a neat trick.
I’ve also been playing with configuring shortcuts for adjusting common sliders using the dynamic shortcut for each slider. This way I can just hold down the corresponding shortcut key and scroll which achieves a similar effect. Do you know if there’s a way to adjust how sensitive scrolling is? Currently, it is very fine-grained so requires a lot of scrolling to make a relatively small adjustment (e.g. +1EV on the exposure module)
@garibaldi Not sure for dynamic but under regular situation in the modules you do the following
In addition, the precision of mouse-wheel and arrow key-adjustments can be altered:
- hold down the Shift key while adjusting to increase the step size by a factor of 10.
- hold down the Ctrl key while adjusting to decrease the step size by a factor of 10.
Both of these multipliers can be amended in the $HOME/.config/darktablerc file:
darkroom/ui/scale_rough_step_multiplier=10.0
darkroom/ui/scale_precise_step_multiplier=0.1
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For what it’s worth, in line with what @davidvj wrote, I tend to live in aperture-priority mode (and in daylight such as that of your shot at lowest ISO) and adjust exposure with the exposure compensation setting, which, at least on my Pentax SLR and I assume on most other cameras, is a quick and easy operation.
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I mainly use the exposure-compensation setting on my camera so as to avoid ‘flooding’ the sensor with bright elements. I rely on my in camera histograms and ‘blinkies’ to alert me to potential sensor overload and then adjust accordingly.
For those using filmic-rgb, setting the exposure this way is blindingly simple and saves so much time in the processing.
I see people suggesting a reset/adjustment of black-point and white point during processing and that simply shifts, without control, the camera’s established 18% exposed pivot point of the data.
This is avoiding over-exposure? If so, same here.
I haven’t put time in to learn Filmic yet. I have the blog post open in a tab, ready to read. 
Hi
You write that as a parent you have very little time to spend on editing photos, and you like Capture One because it lets you edit photos fast. As a parent of a small child that requires lot of care, I know exactly what you mean. That is why I invested quite some time in streamlining my photo editing in Darktable.
I wrote an post about my workflow here: Darktable speedrun: Stylish edits in 40 seconds
As a matter of fact, I’ve gotten so fast at getting acceptable result, that its getting a bit boring. I took this photo an hour ago. It only took me 57 seconds to edit this photo. And without any stress or haste.
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Wow, that is fantastic! Thank you for the write-up, and linking to it here. Brilliant job!
You’re welcome! Don’t hesitate to get back to me if you have any questions about my workflow.
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I just tried to recover blown highlights with Levels in Capture One: It does not work. Apparently, levels come after Capture One’s base curve, and can not recover clipped highlights, even though they can be recovered by lowering exposure.
Thus, shadow/highlight recovery à la the Black and White point sliders in Filmic can not be replicated in Capture One. Darktable FTW!
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