Some cameras scale raw values for larger apertures, particularly Canon and Nikon models. The only way to know whether your camera does this for sure is to take a photo and measure it. Take one photo using your lens’s widest aperture, e.g. f/1.7, at ISO100 with LENR turned OFF, and send it to us along with the rest of the shots. If we detect that there is raw scaling (or if you detect it yourself if you do your own measurements) then we will ask you shoot a series of photos using an exposure time of less than 1 second, from the widest aperture your lens supports down every 1/3 of a stop until such an aperture where raw scaling is no longer performed. This could mean many photos. Handling raw scaling caused by large apertures is not very important so don’t feel daunted by it, you don’t need to do it even if your camera does do raw scaling, but if you have the time and bandwidth then it would be better to check for it.
The left version is the provided dcp with look table and base table enabled. The right version is “camera standard” which should read the matrix from the dng right?
edit: to clarify that “provided” means the one linked to by @Morgan_Hardwood above
try to use the neutral profile then set up your ICM profileAt least i use the interpolated just for artificial lights.
Ive something interesting, open the color_chart.raw or color_chart.dng file, apply the right ICM.
Then set up the White Raw point until you get 100% on R G anb B (see image),
and then on the Black Raw Point play with the set up until you obtain same % on RGB (see image too).
I’m using this GRIII profile with look table off as well.
It seems like the blue channel is blowing out or the white point isnt correct or something when look table is on, i cant get it right with look table on.
I still use the profile as looks better than the standard camera profile but with look table and tone curve off and use auto tone curve.
Have a look at Nosle example photos above. They show too much blue/cyan.
Imagine a properly exposed blue sky.
Turn on the look table and the blue chanel on histogram will shift right as if over exposed.
The blue sky will visibly change cyan in the brightest areas as if over exposed.
I always turn off the look table. You can always play with colors directly within RT, with control over the look you want to get.
Just base table + baseline exposure are fine in my opinion.
@moose upload a few shots, both daylight and incandescent, so that I can take a look. They need to cover a wide variety of natural colors as well as artificial, e.g. human skin, a bouquet of flowers, cars in a parking lot. If https://filebin.net doesn’t work then use Google Drive or anything which doesn’t require me to register.
@moose I tested using many images from Imaging Resource when making the profile and found no issues. None of them showed the over-saturation visible in your cropped screenshots (when reporting issues, never crop screenshots, as you’re cropping potentially important information). I am aware of photographyblog, but it’s extremely slow and seems to limit downloads to one at a time, and I just don’t have time to download many images at under 30kB/s in series. If you don’t want to upload several problematic images, I’m happy to leave this and spend time on other things.
I think the download speed is annoying, but it is about communicating succinctly as well. None of us are paid support people, we do this in our free time. Posting a specific image that exhibits the problem that one has will save everyone a lot of time an effort. Digging through a bunch of random images tryng to find the one is frustrating.