I would like to scan and then process some family photos in Darktable. The photos are from the 2000s, they were printed on reasonable photo paper and stored in a dark place, so they are not significantly faded. The purpose of the exercise is 90% archival and 10% mild adjustments if necessary.
Is there anything I should pay attention to? I have a Samsung multifunction printer that scans, should I just scan a 24bit and be done with it, or do I need to get a better scanner? Cursory inspecting suggests hat it is OK, there is no significant color cast.
Any program on Linux you would recommend for scanning?
Once in Darktable, I thought I would stay in display referred workflow and just use some curves if necessary. Advice or tutorials is welcome.
I use a cheap Canon LiDE L120 for the occasional scan; if scanning using x-sane in 16-bit mode, it outputs linear Rec709 TIFF images, but does not embed a profile, so you have to switch the input profile manually. I then just proceed as usual.
Following.
I have Epson Perfection V850 I know I can use vuescan on Linux, but I’m curious to know which format/resolution/tips to scan images and edit in darktable. I know there is a negadoctor module, but I never investigate in depth.
The 24 bit scan is really what we regard as a 8 bit scan (8 bits per channel). If you want to edit I would recommend a 48 bit scan (really 16 bit per channel). I would also do a tiff and not a JPG for files that will be edited.
Scanning photos can be handled well by most multifunction scanners. Scanning negatives requires a specialised scanner such as the Epson V850 which I currently use. I hate the Epson and Silverfast software supplied with the scanner with a passion. I really have to work hard to get good results. Previously I had a Canon 9000F and got pleasing results much easier with their software, but Canon have stopped production and I don’t know why.
I often scan the negative film as a positive and use negadoctor module to invert the colors. It is a good module and worth learning if you scan negatives.
In my opinion if I scan at 300 DPI I leave no room for cropping later. So for my workflow I decide what is the biggest print I will make from the image. If I decide 6x4 inch I will usually scan as 8 x12 inch @ 300DPI. Then if the shot works out better than expected I don’t catch myself out and can print an A4. I guess that is effectively deciding to do a 6x4 inch scan @ 600DPI. Less about the details and more about the potential biggest print. BTW, if scanning line drawings you probably want 1200DPI to get smooth lines. Don’t use 300 DPI for line drawings.
300dpi should be enough to resolve the prints in most cases, but it really depends how good they are. There were some real pros back in the one hour photo days, but the average was average. Probably have to trust your eye. At 600dpi you’re probably going to start noticing the texture of the paper coming through which isn’t a great look, but you could always add grain to break it up.
It probably goes without saying, but it would be much better to work with the negatives if they were available.