FWIW, if you don’t want your Fuji to automatically underexpose to save highlights (with a DR setting — especially DR Auto), set DR to 100 and it’ll work as expected. And then just like all other digital cameras without auto dynamic range handling, you’ll lose highlights if you’re not careful.
If you don’t want auto highlight recovery, but do want to shoot to for the highlights, having a histogram you can trust is useful. For a Fuji camera, if you mainly just shoot and care about raw, I’ve seen that you can get a pretty decent histogram by setting your camera to:
- Film simulation: Pro Neg Std
- Highlight Tone: -2
- Shadow Tone: -2
- Color -1
- Sharpness: -4
- Noise reduction: -4
Using the relatively neutral settings above makes very bland JPEGs (you can reprocess raw files in-camera by hitting Q and selecting other options if you want to quickly use a SooC JPEG that looks nicer). However, after setting the above, the histogram is much better than when using a film emulation.
So there’s a tradeoff.
If you don’t want to think about the technical aspect so much when shooting and/or want to shoot JPEG (or RAW+JPEG), then you can happily use DR Auto. You can still change settings and think about framing, and so on.
You’ll get useful raw files in darktable either way (as long as you don’t clip highlights) — especially with the linear rgb workflow, filmic rgb, and the improved denoising in darktable. That is: Even if you or your camera accidentally underexpose too much, between your Fuji and DT3, you can still get good images.