I have noticed that my exposures are not especially correct.
At least one channel is more or less blown. I think that I know
the reason, though: before the X-T1, I owned a Cannon 600D,
and I was accustomed to exposing to the very right (a.k.a. ETTR).
If you own an X-T1, what is your experience regarding its exposure
recommendations and the result?
Correct exposures mean nothing in digital. Setting exposure in camera is the same as setting the gain of a microphone : you want to increase it as much as possible to improve the SNR while keeping it under the clipping threshold.
The right exposure is the one that slides the dynamic range of your picture the best inside the dynamic range of your sensor. Which means you could have to pull/push the exposure in soft quite a lot to get your scene middle-grey back at your display middle-grey. It doesn’t matter.
And once the scene/display middle-grey are matched, filmic or else allow you to squeeze black and white back into the display dynamic range around the grey.
FWIW, if you don’t want your Fuji to automatically underexpose to save highlights (with a DR setting — especially DR Auto), set DR to 100 and it’ll work as expected. And then just like all other digital cameras without auto dynamic range handling, you’ll lose highlights if you’re not careful.
If you don’t want auto highlight recovery, but do want to shoot to for the highlights, having a histogram you can trust is useful. For a Fuji camera, if you mainly just shoot and care about raw, I’ve seen that you can get a pretty decent histogram by setting your camera to:
DR100
Film simulation: Pro Neg Std
Highlight Tone: -2
Shadow Tone: -2
Color -1
Sharpness: -4
Noise reduction: -4
Using the relatively neutral settings above makes very bland JPEGs (you can reprocess raw files in-camera by hitting Q and selecting other options if you want to quickly use a SooC JPEG that looks nicer). However, after setting the above, the histogram is much better than when using a film emulation.
So there’s a tradeoff.
If you don’t want to think about the technical aspect so much when shooting and/or want to shoot JPEG (or RAW+JPEG), then you can happily use DR Auto. You can still change settings and think about framing, and so on.
You’ll get useful raw files in darktable either way (as long as you don’t clip highlights) — especially with the linear rgb workflow, filmic rgb, and the improved denoising in darktable. That is: Even if you or your camera accidentally underexpose too much, between your Fuji and DT3, you can still get good images.
@garrett Yes! Your settings are much better than my old ones. Thank you!
(Even if my X-T1 cannot go lower than -2 for Sharpness and for Noise reduction.)
I use a similar (but different) strategy
Based on the fact that the RAW has more recovery place than the jpeg, I expose until the highlights start to clip. At that point I know that I can overexpose 1 stop without blowing the highlights in the RAW.
Yes, you just need to find out your camera’s headroom for various ISO and then adjust accordingly. You don’t need RawDigger or any other paid app; just take a series of test shots and then examine the raw files using exiftool or exiv2.