After analyzing all your edits, and using the new AgX-Like feature in Sigmoid that will be released soon in version 4.6, I have achieved a slightly better result than the first version I edited.
_DSF7627.RAF.xmp (19.2 KB)
After analyzing all your edits, and using the new AgX-Like feature in Sigmoid that will be released soon in version 4.6, I have achieved a slightly better result than the first version I edited.
_DSF7627.RAF.xmp (19.2 KB)
Thank you for publishing the final result. I realize that I had over-accentuated local contrasts in my edits.
Greetings from Brussels,
Christian
What a nice pair of cars!
@difrkaguilar IMHO the base ISO for your camera is 160, so you were losing some dynamic range by setting it to 100
Trying hard to get back the yellow colour - Dynamic Range Ccompression, Colour Propagation and a negative exposure correction helped.
And then under Local Adjustments / Color & Light the Merge File / Original Image / Soft Light Illusion helped to give some contrast back without understanding at all what this tool does.
A really nice play, thanks a lot!
Edit: The base ISO of X-H1 seems to be 200 according to dpreview
Iâll going to do some test with the ISO at 160
Thanks for the tip.
After a lot of editions from this photo someone also could say: the Fujifilm jpegs are so good and if you donât have a lot of expertise in converting raw files you will fail to get better results. Fujifilm generate pleasing colours with their camera jpeg engine.
You should use the camera basic ISO 200 (X-H1) generally, except you have not enough light to expose long enough to get right exposure (say, you canât open your aperture or you canât choose a longer exposure time).
The raw file is a little bit overexposed (e.g. left side from yellow car). You can show overexposure indicator in darktable with keyboard shortcut âshift + oâ.
I donât know which colours are ârightâ in reality and colours are hard to remember afterwards by yourself. Was the yellow like a lemon or more âreddishâ. And the red. Are you sure, you remember colours right?
But letâs talk about ârightâ colours: you need right colous in product photographie etc.
In this kind of photographie âweâ need more pleasing colours, they should only be credible.
Remeber analoge film: are the colours right from Fuji Provia or Kodak Portra? No, but they produce pleasing colours.
What do you say?
_DSF7627.xmp (18.2 KB)
**) the tone curve and color lookup table settings are not ideal for X-H1 and more accurate for X-E4 to emulate Provia film simulation.
I can confirm that real base ISO for Fujifilm X-H1 is 200 (same for X-T1*), so setting it to 100 results the same as if you deliberately overexposed by one stop and tried to pull it back during post processing.
In most cases the highlights are gone for good.
Just an old print you found in your parents shoe box, right?
cars-and-colors-in-havana_DSF7627.RAF.xmp (20.9 KB)
dt 4.4.2
Hi,
Yo he usado el fork (Ansel) de Aurelien Pierre, solo con filmic RGB y estoy bastante satisfecho con el resultado comparado con esta versiĂłn que nos presentas.
Solo tengo una duda, mi color picker me da un amarillo (sin trazas de verde), puede parecer algo mas âmostazaâ, pero no si nos atenemos a los canales RGB. Dejo una muestra de las tres zonas sin luces especulares ni alta luminosidad.
I have used the fork (Ansel) of Aurelien Pierre, only with RGB filmic and I am quite satisfied with the result compared to this version that you present us.
I only have one doubt, my colour picker gives me a yellow (without traces of green), it may look a bit more âmustardâ, but no, if we stick to the RGB channels. I leave a sample of the three zones without specular lights or high luminosity.
SAludos.
Cheers.
Hola Jose.
Muy bien se ven los colores, y especĂficamente el amarillo. Saludos.
Hello Jose.
Very nice looking colors, and specifically the yellow. Greetings.
Sorry I neglected to upload the full image.