I think this is why he made them persistent. You will see that resetting the module doesn’t clear them so you need to manually do it… if you paste append I think it should be fine… but I think because they are persistent you can just use the picker in each image and have it apply that setting…
I don’t recall the step by step in the video but i think he demonstrates how to apply the process… good luck…
Ah! The significance of that was lost on me, while being made an obvious feature of the function. I should have paid more attention, as this use of persistence within the spot color mapping is (I think) unique within dt. Thanks for reminding me.
If you don’t have any success with dt and hugin, you can try the free Image Composite Editor from Microsoft. It is not open source and I’m not shilling for a commercial company, but credit where it’s due, it is free to use and does a very good job. You can input RAW files and it will tone map them and blend them automatically. You can then export as a TIFF and finish your editing in darktable.
For less work on the exported TIFF, I have had success using the spot exposure and spot colour mapping tools in dt to prepare JPEGs first, and then use ICE to blend them together.
Its caught a lot of people that forget to set it back to 50 0 0 in CC module… Then everytime they use the picker for a spot WB they get a weird cast…. Bit of a gottcha if you forget…
Yep, count me as one of those. Happened more than once too!
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I’ve never had an issue with this - make sure you use selective copy, and tick all the boxes. I also find it’s a good idea to have lens correction enabled for pano images, to remove vignetting and distortion.
Thanks for this tip. I quite agree with your assessment, which is worth more than 1/-; it’s at least 1/9d, if not half a crown, in old, real, ‘rattles in your pocket’, money. It’s a pity that MS have made it so difficult to find ICE; the only (minimally reliable) source I could find was (for the benefit of subsequent readers) via dpreview.com/forums/threads/4551999 - at the bottom of that thread, where a dropbox URL is given.
I was greatly surprised to find that ICE - dating from 2008 I guess - was able to handle my RAF images which, for my camera, post-date ICE by about 10 years. How does it do this, aside from being able to read the embedded jpeg with the RAF, I suppose?
I know I’m strictly ‘trailing-edge’, but before starting this ‘walk-about’ I had no idea that this panorama stitching technology is at least 2, if not more, decades old. Why no recent, FOSS, activity on this function? Have we already delivered the ultimate solution? If so, the ‘usability’ aspect seem to be well disguised in some of the offerings …
For me, Hugin works well. I’ve described my steps above. Can you describe what problem you are trying to solve?
Indeed you have and I thnk you for taking the time to do so. I haven’t yet had the time to absorb all your advice - but I will do so shortly. In the meantime, the big problem I have is in understanding what a ‘stack’ is in Hugin and how to get Hugin the stitch my images…
On my last photographic ‘event’ I took two sweeps, of 9 images each, across the view, one above the other in order to not lose parts of the roof-tops or the ground in the resultant cropped panorama. I even used a 14 mm (21mm in 35 mm equivalent, I think) lens for this, with a tripod mounted camera. I don’t understand how to tell Hugin how to position these images relative to each other. I thought that by manually setting the control points I would then be telling Hugin explicitly how the images related to each other. That quickly became all too big a task. In any event, the resultant panorama appeared as if all the images had been laid on top of each other, in what I would describe as a single ‘stack’.
At this time I have decided that I must break a long -standing tradition of falling asleep while reading the manual. This is a challenge: the manual is written from the viewpoint of describing/specifying individual function points (which is truly soporific), not from the task perspective. The YouTube videos are generally too superficial, aside from being tremendously irritating to watch. But I will persevere…
A stack is photos of the same location with different exposures (or focus, I guess). Normally I don’t use that.
Hugin should detect the positions when you align the images.
Oh, I agree: it should. It doesn’t. Reason: user error, but what specific error is still to be determined.
Do you have enough overlap between the images? Hugin will try to look for similar pieces in the photos (anchor points). If you do not get enough, or they are of bad quality, stitching won’t work.
Here’s Aurélien Pierre’s tutorial. I actually apply the white balance, instead of doing it after stitching (that somehow never worked for me).
I believe so: two horizontal layers of 9 images each over a sweep of about 180 degrees horizontally and 20 degrees vertically should be enough, surely?
Thanks for the pointer to the AP tutorial - I hadn’t seen this before, so I must follow it up.
Why not try and stitch part of the panorama first? Just let Hugin pick the control points (careful with sky/clouds) and align the images.
And if you used a 21mm FF equivalent focal lenght, you should have a FoV per image of over 80°. So you may actually have too much overlap: 4 images should cover the full 180° sweep…
If you have clouds, those may result in false control points being detected. See Hugin Preferences - PanoTools.org Wiki
Try the option Control Point Detector Programs = Hugin’s CPFind + Celeste
Hmm, good point. I’ll try that.
I think I have a bigger problem than this: having searched for a couple of hours I am unable to find any method for getting an editable file (such as a jpeg, tiff, png or even psd) out of Hugin. It’s obviously there but so well hidden that it means the human factors design is compromised such that I cannot justify spending any more time on it today without first trying a google search or trying to get the information out of the disjointed set of notes that constitute the Hugin manual, on panotools.
I don’t get this, sorry. If the interface is set to the simple or beginner (whatever it is called) mode, you have 3 buttons, which you have to press in order:
- Load images
- Align
- Create panorama => that’s the export button
Yeah, I can understand your feeling of incredulity. I had been looking for some sort of ‘save this stitched output’ button, option, icon, file-menu entry or whatever - but there is nothing. What I didn’t realise is that the output I wanted is automatically written as a result of running the ‘create panorama’ step. I have just discovered this, this morning, entirely by accident, when doing a back-up. And this was after considerable more reading and experimentation. I make no further comment about usability here…
However, I still have not found a way to stitch images which are in a vertical alignment with other images which are in a horizontal alignment - as I typically have when I make two passes across an architectural scene when I cannot capture all the vertical field of view, even with a reasonable (21 mm) wide angle lens, in a single pass.