Hello @Terry
What about RawDigger?
The same software company releases also FastRawViewer which allows you to check your photos.
For both I suppose there might be also a demo to try them before purchasing.
What exactly is the use of a histogram of the raw data, other than to check for clipping (which darktable is able to show!).
(as an aside: the page for FastRawViewer is not quite truthful when they state they show the raw image “as a raw converter would see it”: their previews are at least white balanced…)
I depend on the raw clipping indicator assessing my images in the darkroom and deciding to delete or edit. It is a great feature. Histograms are not that important in my workflow although I have come to appreciate RGB parade for some guidance.
Got forbid! I am a Canonist 
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Could you please expand on that? I don’t really use the histogram for anything, so perhaps I’m missing something important.
I see it referenced in youtube guides a lot, but normally as an illustration of what an edit is doing, rather than the information that triggered the edit in the first place.
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Sorry I meant to say histograms are not that important to my workflow. I find the RGB parade more informative, but I only use it for guidance and don’t depend upon it for editing decisions.
In the past, I’ve wanted to assess how much I’ve underexposed a scene while shooting.
Even if you shoot raw only, the camera makes a jpg. The jpg is used for the camera replay, thumbnails, etc. The camera histogram is based on the jpg.
Most cameras do embed a low resolution jpg inside the raw. This is to speed up previews in most software.
In darktable, when you open the raw, the darktable histogram is based on darktable’s processing of the raw file. The jpg has no influence.
darktable’s doesn’t include presets for “make the raw look like my camera’s jpg”. It’s a feature, not a bug.
Personally I have never done it but in theory if you are experimenting or have the time while shooting or setting up your shot you could create a camera setting in UNIWB. All the wb scalars are 1 and if you do this and reduce any contrast settings then your histogram is about as close as you might get to a raw one.
Your image will be very green and need raw development but you could experiment with it to get to know your camera and your sensor…