I have been experimenting (== playing) with printer profiles for different paper qualities a while now. Below you will find my first test using common Newsprint (about 50 gsm and absorbent as ****). I was quite nervous that it should get stuck inside the printer, but the paper was ejected properly.
I am quite happy with the result and will go on experimenting with more sturdy sheets, originally intended for offset and intaglio presses.
I did not make a special printer profile for Newsprint (this was the first time I have ever tried that kind of paper). Instead, I used a profile that I made for Munken Pure (a 100 gsm, matte, uncoated paper intended for big offset presses).
Yes, the print head stained the paper – see for instance the large grey vertical field to the right.
Ooh I’ve sent so many meters of newsprint trough a a3 printer! Brings back memories. I used to print A3 wide A0 long strips and then stick them together using magic tape on the back resulting in A0 prints. Cutting the strips using a good heavy ruler and a scalpel you could make the joints invisible unless carefully scrutinized. You had to be really careful not to strecth the tape the slightest as that would result in a slight crumpling of the thin paper.
For next level stuff try printing on drawing film or even (non silicone) baking paper. A bit of masking tape on the leading edge makes anything go trough!
edit: newprint is really beautiful if handled correctly
Really nice to find another experimenter
You cannot imagine how many different types of (real print) paper qualities I have here and there in the playroom. From flimsies (a.k.a. hymnal paper) to too-hard sized handmade A1 sheets. No, the latter is not suitable for an ink jet - the ink drops don’t have a chance to enter the fibres.
I never tried to produce a newsprint profile. Thats quite a step up in madness level My solution was to desaturate/pull down the black to avoid the paper buckling or becoming to wet and tearing. I wonder what the dot gain on newsprint is…
Ink on paper can be messy but fun too
Obviously producing a proper printer profile is the way to go, but if you’re satisfied with the results with the current profile but not so much with the ink charge because of dot gain, you could try producing a device link profile using the same profile you used here but with a reduced TAC.
There was a beautiful free app created by Alastair M. Robinson that helped for these tests, but sadly it is abandoned.
The source code is available of course, so it would be nice if somebody takes it and keep the program alive. I used it a lot back in the day when I ran my 100% FLOSS design business. http://www.blackfiveimaging.co.uk/index.php?article=02Software%2F05CMYKTool