I think @Morgan_Hardwood is right. @yteaot can we expand this into a post on the main site as a tutorial? Do you want to flesh it out just a little bit with me?
Just ignore the horrific posterization in the web-viewer image Flickr generated, all of the download sizes look better In this one I used 15 exposures to get an effective sensor size of about 3.2x3.5 inches, although I cropped in quite a bit for the final edit (cropped from ~200MP to ~100, which still makes GIMP choke). I could have covered the whole space with just nine, but using the digital back on a view camera seems to generate some pretty pronounced centerfold artifacts in the shadows, and with some duplicate pixels in the in-between spaces enblend seems to do a pretty good job of smoothing them out. I just have to accept that it’s gonna take some time to process one of these monsters
I stumble upon a new software (for me) at work for stitching (and specifically, flat stitching).
It’s called ImageJ. I play little around with it (the Fiji flavour, which contain stitching plugin). I found the Pairwise Stitching very effective, but as the name imply you can only do it by pair so if the collection contain a lot of image it tend to be click intensive.
There is another plugin Grid/Collection stitching, which seem very close to what @bieber was looking for. You can feed the plugin with image in a dedicated folder and choose from the various way of ordering them to help the plugin do the stitching. I have to admit that I didn’t succeed to make it work with the provided files, but I didn’t spent much time on it either.
Shooting a long graffiti does not work with one picture. In the next video I will show you how to photograph a very long graffiti.
Camera for manual control. Take each image while the camera is parallel to the graffiti and at the same distance and height. Do not change the zoom.
I took 15 pictures. jpg.7z (62.2 MB)
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All images and video in this post are licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0