A little bit later. I am migrating to a new pc at the moment. Unfortunately I have an unsharp jpeg-example only, where I want to findout why the plant died, I assume greenflies killed the plant, but it could be a fungus too.
Thanks for your reply Istvan, thatâs indeed cool news.
Though I guess you are aware, the mini tutorial highlights the need of using the raw chromatic abberations module, which does not work with X-Trans, so at the end this might lessen its utility for Fuji users.
Any chance this could be improved sometime in the future, or is the complexity just prohibiive?
Xtrans are less prone to CA. In all my tests itâs absolutely fine with most lenses I came across âŚ
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Ah, cool, didnât know that, people usually talk about lack of moire as a benefit. Though yeah, thinking about it, I only have an issue with it in extremely challenging shots, or using my cheap chinese f0.95 lens (which I hardly ever use nowadays). Thanks for confirming itâs gonna be fine.
Hi Todd,
So, the Equalizer module is now called the Contrast Equalizer in dt 5.0. Thatâs good to know!
Thank you.
The old equalizer was deprecated in favour of the ânewâ contrast equalizer 5 years ago, in darktable 3.4.
As noted by @kofa the module name changed and I would have to go back and check but likely some code in the background also changed. But the demonstration of the module and for the most part the features, explanation and UI are all relevant and for me its one of the best videos made for this moduleâŚ
As a studio photographer I have found that if the focus is out by a little bit that âSharpenâ will be enough. For people with mirrorless cameras spot focus will nail it depending on where you put the dot in the viewfinder. For non professional DSLRs it can get a bit fraught because there is no Micro Adjustment. If you buy a secondhand Canon EOS Mkii you will have only one setting for Microadjustment, so with a prime lens or a zoom on Telescopic you can get a good result, 6D, 6DMkii, 5DMkiii, 5DMkiv and the 1D series for example for a zoom lens th âWâ and âTâ deliver excellent outcomes. Do everything from your shooting habits to camera adjustments before choosing your software solution.
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I have 2 situations:
DSLR, eg Pentax K-1 and KP
normally not a big problem.
Mobile phone
sometimes big problems.
With the mobile phone I do plant documentation, things like at which date a plant has gotten a leave, aso. So if the photo is unsharp it doesnât matter a lot. With the mobile phone it is pretty hard to get a certain small trunk, which is close, sharp. And this is my problem.
I used OpenCamera and maybe the DRO-function is broken.
Open Camera Help
Dynamic Range Optimisation (DRO) is a technique that optimises the dynamic range available in the image. In particular, dark regions will have their brightness boosted to bring out the detail. This mode is useful for capturing scenes with a wide range of brightness (e.g., on a bright sunny day) as well as being useful to automatically optimise photos in low light scenes.
Looks like this function should be ok with most photos.
Some, but not all, pictures look very unsharp, maybe âblurredâ like doing a photo with a DSLR and 1 second shutter speed. On a bright sunny day I have speeds over 1/1000⌠It shouldnât matter, if it is a little bit windy.
So if the DRO function is broken and makes things unsharp in certain situations, I am lost. I have decided to delete these photos and use a DSLR now, but this is overkill, to see when I new leave grows.
At 1/1000 shutter speed camera shake will be a non-event. Maybe you are getting too close to the plant, if you are as close as 15cm, try shooting at 30 or 40cm.
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I agree, most times faster. Note, a mobile phone uses open aperture like 1:1,7, so speeds must be high in sunlight.
Could be, but this could be with 5m distance too.
For me it looks like HDR with an object which is moving. I cannot imagine what happened. Conclusion, I donât use this anymore. Letâs say 70% of the photos are garbage and I was prepared to throw a lot photos away⌠Not a real problem, because it is for documentation and not art photography.
From a technical point of view, there could be exposure in this situation wrong, but exposure was ok. WIth 5m distance and a mobile phone, it should not be sharpness problem. I think a software algorithm destroyed the photos and i fear darktable canât help too.
The only disadvantage now is, I have 50MB files instead of 5-10MB files and to wear a camera and lens with 3-4kg instead of a mobile phone.
I think you are using the wrong tool for the job. A cellphone is not ideal for this. I recommend a m43 camera.
@linuxuser did you ever share a photo yet?? Sorry if I missed itâŚ