Are you sure that’s the right sidecar? The original is a Panasonic RW2 file 
damned… 
is changed
Thanks, everyone. By chance, I opened this file again today, before I noticed the new entries.
With the colour version, my experience is that the plate’s background tends to turn into pale blue (I got results similar to @pphoto Night BW shot using old LX7 - #54 by pphoto), when in reality it’s a kind of green (as shown in Night BW shot using old LX7 - #26 by priort, Night BW shot using old LX7 - #29 by priort and
Night BW shot using old LX7 - #31 by Underexposed).
The Yamaha sign is a pain, too, my own attempts did not get even close to what you’ve achieved.
Also, when I reduce the brightness of the plate, I can’t get a good mask, mine are all soft:
I’ll have to study your sidecars more closely.
BTW, this is literally 2 clicks in Filmulator:
- B&W on
- highlight recovery = 2
Too bad that there are artefacts after turning on highlight recovery. Without that, it’s the traffic light that looks bad.
With HL recovery:
Without:
@CarVac, any suggestions?
one more try on my monitor.
so I don’t get any closer.
the lack of details may also be a kind of tone mapping in the camera, which darktable cannot reproduce.
Nikon pictures ooc also have more details / microcontrast, and apart from nikon software itself, as far as I know, no other converte can reproduce this. the noise reduction engine in the camera also seems to be better optimized.
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This image is very interesting. Simple with a lot going on. None of the results match my visualization (
) of the actual scene yet. As they say, the night is young.
yes, … it is difficult to emulate / simulate or recreate something if you don’t know the basics of the process.
I’m not really satisfied with my attempts either. 
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If you take a look at the color image before you enable highlight recovery, you’ll notice that the issue is the sensor doesn’t clip very nicely, leaving artifacts at the edges of the lights. Could be partly due to sensor readout quirks (like the ol’ 5D2 black dots) or due to lens purple fringing.
Regardless of what causes the artifacts, this really messes up the highlight reconstruction.
One way you can deal with this in the monochrome conversion is to set highlight recovery to 1 (no clipping, no reconstruction) and then raise the red weight to keep the pink highlights from appearing gray. But this changes the look of things.
i have an idea …
maybe someone has the possibility to photograph a colorchecker with this b / w mode?
and can he provide the jpg and the raw file?
this should at least make it easy to reproduce the tone curve in DT.
I think it’s worth a try.
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RawTherapee 5.8
I tried to match the on the camera jpg.
My version is a little more contrasted, but they’re not so far.
P1050600.-4.jpg.out.pp3 (12.3 KB)
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easiest way to keep the 11 when working in black and white is to yank the blue/green lightness in the color zones module.
P1050600.RW2.xmp (60.4 KB)
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Using RT I don’t get the artifacts. Perhaps we should port latest highlight reconstruction code from RT to librtprocess?
Have improvements been made recently?
If so, yes, please.
Raising the black point also helps. Filmulator is amazing!
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Nice! How did you go from raw to Gimp?
As I mentioned here earlier, I respect time, at my age I don’t have it for theoretical games.
I also have darktable and other software,
sometimes I use SNS-HDR Pro, but for fast work I use
SNS-HDR Lite in this case a dramatic profile.
Processing time about 20 sec.
Then I open 32bit in GIMP of course. Colors, Components, Distribute and Lab Mode sequentially.
L channel denoises and sharpens.
Channels A and B, if necessary, denoising and color PoP setting.
…
The whole thing takes about 5 - 10 minutes
I developed a very detailed guide (the link was provided, but in Polish)
I do not know English at all, I translate Googl.
greetings