Night BW shot using old LX7

Processing Play Raw
,
62

Thanks, everyone. By chance, I opened this file again today, before I noticed the new entries.
With the colour version, my experience is that the plate’s background tends to turn into pale blue (I got results similar to @pphoto Night BW shot using old LX7 - #54 by pphoto), when in reality it’s a kind of green (as shown in Night BW shot using old LX7 - #26 by priort, Night BW shot using old LX7 - #29 by priort and
Night BW shot using old LX7 - #31 by Underexposed).
The Yamaha sign is a pain, too, my own attempts did not get even close to what you’ve achieved.
Also, when I reduce the brightness of the plate, I can’t get a good mask, mine are all soft:
image image image

I’ll have to study your sidecars more closely.

63

BTW, this is literally 2 clicks in Filmulator:

  • B&W on
  • highlight recovery = 2

Too bad that there are artefacts after turning on highlight recovery. Without that, it’s the traffic light that looks bad.

image
image1878×1080 600 KB

With HL recovery:
image image image image
image

Without:
image image image image
image

@CarVac, any suggestions?

64

one more try on my monitor.

so I don’t get any closer.
the lack of details may also be a kind of tone mapping in the camera, which darktable cannot reproduce.
Nikon pictures ooc also have more details / microcontrast, and apart from nikon software itself, as far as I know, no other converte can reproduce this. the noise reduction engine in the camera also seems to be better optimized.

translated by Google :face_with_hand_over_mouth:

Night BW shot using old LX7_P1050600
Night BW shot using old LX7_P10506002500×1411 668 KB

Night BW shot using old LX7_P1050600_01.RW2.xmp (9.9 KB)

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This image is very interesting. Simple with a lot going on. None of the results match my visualization (:point_down:) of the actual scene yet. As they say, the night is young.

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yes, … it is difficult to emulate / simulate or recreate something if you don’t know the basics of the process.

I’m not really satisfied with my attempts either. :neutral_face:

translated by Google :face_with_hand_over_mouth:

67

If you take a look at the color image before you enable highlight recovery, you’ll notice that the issue is the sensor doesn’t clip very nicely, leaving artifacts at the edges of the lights. Could be partly due to sensor readout quirks (like the ol’ 5D2 black dots) or due to lens purple fringing.

Regardless of what causes the artifacts, this really messes up the highlight reconstruction.

One way you can deal with this in the monochrome conversion is to set highlight recovery to 1 (no clipping, no reconstruction) and then raise the red weight to keep the pink highlights from appearing gray. But this changes the look of things.

68

i have an idea …
maybe someone has the possibility to photograph a colorchecker with this b / w mode?
and can he provide the jpg and the raw file?
this should at least make it easy to reproduce the tone curve in DT.

I think it’s worth a try.

translated by …

69

RawTherapee 5.8

I tried to match the on the camera jpg.
My version is a little more contrasted, but they’re not so far.

P1050600.-4
P1050600.-41920×1082 403 KB

P1050600.-4.jpg.out.pp3 (12.3 KB)

1 Like
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Lightzone (I’m still learning!)

P1050600_lzn
P1050600_lzn1024×577 61.9 KB

1 Like
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easiest way to keep the 11 when working in black and white is to yank the blue/green lightness in the color zones module.

P1050600
P10506002048×1156 399 KB

P1050600.RW2.xmp (60.4 KB)

1 Like
72

Using RT I don’t get the artifacts. Perhaps we should port latest highlight reconstruction code from RT to librtprocess?

73

Have improvements been made recently?

If so, yes, please.

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Yes, @jdc ported some changes from ART to RT. I will have a look…

1 Like
75

Raising the black point also helps. Filmulator is amazing!

1 Like
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P1050600-SNS-HDR Lite_Dramatic-LAB
P1050600-SNS-HDR Lite_Dramatic-LAB3984×2248 1.55 MB
Wysyłanie: P1050600-SNS-HDR Lite_Dramatic-LAB.jpg

GIMP

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Nice! How did you go from raw to Gimp?

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As I mentioned here earlier, I respect time, at my age I don’t have it for theoretical games.
I also have darktable and other software,
sometimes I use SNS-HDR Pro, but for fast work I use
SNS-HDR Lite in this case a dramatic profile.
Processing time about 20 sec.
Then I open 32bit in GIMP of course. Colors, Components, Distribute and Lab Mode sequentially.
L channel denoises and sharpens.
Channels A and B, if necessary, denoising and color PoP setting.
…
The whole thing takes about 5 - 10 minutes
I developed a very detailed guide (the link was provided, but in Polish)
I do not know English at all, I translate Googl.
greetings

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Thanks for your explanation…you mention a link but I didn’t see a document??

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@priort