thanks for the great respones. They are really helpful. Especially @MotoFotoe: it is nice to see the current workflow of some folks.
I am currently evaluating some of the PLAY-RAW threads and they seem to help a lot. I think it is not necessary to upload a picture, as I was pointed to the right directions from your answers. Thanks for that. Very great and helpful forum
I think I will find my way. Once again I recognize how important it is, that people make helpful tutorials.
PS: Iām not sure, if I should like that there is a windows version. Now I have nothing at work what holds me back from editing some playworks in the office. Just kiddingā¦
I realize this is an old posting, nonetheless Iām curious to hear what problem you had with Fuji & DT.
Iām using it and so far Iām very happy with the results.
@andrayverysame, Hi,
Firstly before anyone gets the wrong impression, Iām a BIG darktable fan
My only problem is with the sharpening of the files, I find the RL deconvolution with damping set to zero, leads to a clean detailed file. Also the demosaicing in RT might add to this
Iāve tried and tried to get the same ācleanā detail in dt but cannot.
So Iāve a preset in RT, demosaic, Standard film curve low iso, RL deconvolution (damping at zero)
Run my raws through RT and save either as Tiffs or jpegs and open in darktable to do the rest.
You might ask, why donāt I stay in RT to do the editing, well I never been able to get my head around the fact that you have to be at 100% to see the effect of certain modules, take sharpening for example, when zooming out, the image looks soft, so I cannot tell if it needs a little more contrast, Iāve tried having plenty of detail windows open but I guess it just doesnāt suit me.
Hmā¦ Iām not sure at this point if Iām doing anything wrong, but Iām checking my X-E2 raw files and it seems I canāt find a way to see the worms
Which is good, of course, but I heard about this issue so many times among fuji shooters who use other programs as well that I always find myself a little puzzled as I never had this issue.
Well, Iāll keep experimenting and if I stumble upon the same problem Iāll post here.
Hi. I know this thread is elderly, but I keep coming back to it, because in the starting post, Joeheb describes my feelings exactly :).
However just wanted to mention: clicking the link in @paperdigits post for Weekly Edit either leads to a pop-up that I have apparently won a smartphone, or, after clearing all browser history, takes me to a weird url that starts with ww7 instead of www.
Thanks, I already had harry_durgin bookmarked on YT. Just thought you might want to remove the link for future readers.
In LR I just used the basic options and got nice results. Iāve just uploaded my first batch of dt-processed images to Flickr and I think they could be betterā¦ (flickr.com/jaydot)
Like joeheb, I have a Fujifilm camera, and one thing Iāve figured out is that I get a better start by not using the preset base curve for Fujiā¦ (I use neutral).
Other than that, Iām simply frustrated at being at the bottom of what seems to be a steep learning curve, dt has so many more options! I spent the whole afternoon trying to mask one red object in an image and didnāt succeed. So far :).
Hey @Jaydot, Iām a newbie here and have been using these raw editors for some three months now.
Indeed, itās not that easy at the beginning, and I almost gave up.
Now I feel totally confident in doing my basic stuff (everything I was doing in PS and LR, not muchā¦ and a bit more, now)
I hope you donāt give up. One interesting thing to do here is sharing a raw file under the Play raw tag and let others apply their own workflows. You can learn a lot from others there and maybe it will ease a bit your initial efforts. Donāt be shy. (For example, Iād be glad to edit your rood ding raw!)
The more specific you are, the better we can help you. Iāve never used LR, so I donāt know what the basics are, and there is a high chance that the basics are different for each person.
I also have a Fuji, I got it recently and Iāve been pleased with the results Iāve been able to coax from the raw files.
For beginners in dark table, Iād remcomend limiting yourself to the following modules: base curve, tone curve, color zones, equalizer with clarity preset, and sharpening. You should be able to get really far. Take the time to learn how the masks work (that is what really sets DT apart). I often use drawn + parametric masks, and multiple selectors of the parametric mask. I usually use the parametric mask (L and Hue or C) to narrow the selection and the drawn mask to refine it.
Post some problem images and we can help you more.
Wow! Thank you both! This is the image that has me gnashing my teethā¦ The red thing should be red, not orange, my daughter has a lovely complexion which is messed up, and trying to get a bit more detail in her jeans resulted in a lot of noise.
I know itās a snapshot, and it doesnāt merit hours of work, but it came out of LR without those problemsā¦
Off to work now, but Iāll try to figure out how to upload the raw file in the weekend. Do I have to put it online somewhere and link to it, or can I actually upload a 32Mb raw file?
Also I donāt see an āinsert imageā button - perhaps that is because Iām so very new here?
Cheers,
j.
Create a post, add a trailing ā[Play Raw]ā header to the title and upload the file. Usually people also upload a corresponding jpg, either the cameraās or your workflow result.
Also, donāt forget to add the play_raw tag and license the file under the Creative Commons licence. Take a look at my first play raw.
Obrigada, @gadolf. Isnāt it amazing how different people produce quite different images! I find the Play Raw threads absolutely fascinating, and I havenāt even downloaded anything yet to study the xml files . Your pano of Rio is lovely. But in Play Raw, all sorts of different software is used, and for the time being I think I need to concentrate on understanding the basics of dt. @paperdigits, thanks again. I redid my photo from scratch using your āfirst workflowā (after watching endless yt videoās and reading endless explanations) and I got much better results! Changing the base curve was essential, the Fuji base curve is very agressive to my eye, so I changed to neutral with exposure fusion, which gave me a far nicer starting point.
Actually, I think your āfirst workflowā answers the question @joeheb started out with - with special attention to the base curve thing. As a new user you donāt even realise itās there and what itās doing to your imageā¦
I will continue to read and practice
@Jaydot thatās what I did at first, and still doing now (but now I started using other tools, where they seem to fit specific needs. For example, I find RT better in removing noise - specifically, with wavelets - and noise is my main issue) But youāre right, for now, keep with one software, and DT is a good starting point.
. Your pano of Rio is lovely. But in Play Raw, all sorts of different software is used, and for the time being I think I need to concentrate on understanding the basics of dt.