[PlayRaw] Hawkcraig Pier

@afre, thanks for the informative reply. I’ve been doing some experimenting, the Canon EF-S 10-18 is a lot sharper at f/11, than it is at f/20. So perhaps my shooting the scene at f/20 caused it to be somewhat soft.

I’ve also since learned how to zoom in using the live view, so I can get a focus lock on for example the distant lights on the horizon.

Pat Davids tutorial on faking ND Filters by stacking images certainly looks useful. At the moment my wallet is in such a state I cannot afford a 10 stop ND filter, so I may try doing the same technique which Pat discusses in the article for future long exposures!

Certainly a lot to learn!

@stonefree, that B&W conversion is beautiful!

This lens is the sharpest at f/5.6
https://www.lenstip.com/410.4-Lens_review-Canon_EF-S_10-18_mm_f_4.5-5.6_IS_STM_Image_resolution.html

With focal length 10mm f/5.6 hyperphocal distance = 2.05 so the depth of field you have from 1m - ∞

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That’s lenstip site is very useful resource, Adlatus, thanks for sharing.

Hyperfocal distance is something I haven’t really understood. The only problem with shooting at f/5.6 would be to get a slow enough shutter speed to get the “milky water” effect. however the @patdavid article may be a way around that, blending several short exposures to get the equivalent of a long exposure. Something to play with!

I think I may be best revisiting the location sometime soon and reshoot the scene :slight_smile:

My tries with Darktable.

The unique difference between them is that the second one is a little bit blueish and saturated.

IMG_0080_darktable_02IMG_0080_darktable_01

BTW I copied split toning from other user reply but I don’t remember who, sorry.

Did someone say split toning? IMG_0080.tiff.pp3 (10.6 KB)

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That split toning causes eye cancer…

and far beyond causes the profussely tested, realistic and well documented kaneda effect … with the soundtrack and all :stuck_out_tongue: I can hear the universe vortexing around HIRAM’s toni, split toni :sunglasses:

Sunrise, sunrise …
Thanks for the nice shot. IMG_0080.jpg.out.pp3 (11.2 KB)

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A non-photography question about this photo: how long has this pier been missing sections?

As I said above, this photo is fine even though there is room for improvement. (@Brian_Innes Can’t wait for Hawkcraig Pier part 2, when you get the chance!) The main problem that I had was a lack of inspiration in terms of post-processing, so I just tried a bunch of things. Feedback appreciated on what else I could do.

  1. PhotoFlow
    a) wb (shade), exposure (0-3, blend), hot pixels + lens corrections, aces linear (clip negative values)
    b) tone mapping (filmic), crop (φ, gcd=8)

  2. enfuse 0-3

  3. gmic
    a) clip negative values, apply gamma, separate L and CH
    b) denoise (guided filter), redistribute values, denoise again, combine L and CH
    c) edit (forgot to list) clipped top 10% to increase saturation
    d) prep for your viewing pleasure

IMG_0080-afre

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Wow! You achieved to recover a lot of seashore rock details.
I like your photo :+1:

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@elGordo, the pier was constructed in the 1850s, when a ferry used to run between Aberdour, Fife & Leith, Edinburgh. Once the railway opened in Aberdour, the ferry ceased operation in 1890. More info here:

http://ports.org.uk/port.asp?id=999

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“The pier is now in a ruinous and dangerous condition.”
I’d say!

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First, I’d like to say ‘hi’ as this is my very first post. Here it goes my try with Lightzone

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@awoisoak Hello, welcome to the forum! Nice colorful sky.

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Welcome! It looks nice, can you share what you did?

Thanks, I repeated the steps here:

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Sadly I slept in to get down to the pier for Sunrise this morning :frowning: Anyway, great video @awoisoak, Lightzone looks an interesting piece of software.

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I see. I wonder where the missing pieces went. Made into someone’s furniture? :rofl:

As a chronic insomniac, I would imagine that good sleep is like sunrise at Hawkcraig Pier :sun_with_face:.

@Kane_Davis Were you going to post something? Maybe you discovered something new and are working on it :slight_smile:, but I can’t wait to see what you come up with. For me, it often takes multiple tries to get it right!


Here is another attempt by me :slight_smile:. Basically, it takes the first two steps of my original take and redoes step 3 to give a less faux-HDR appearance. The new step 3:

  1. gmic

    a) Since I had trouble with LCH manipulation, I decided to duplicate the base image and treat one copy in favor of lightness and the other color using curves, and then combine them.

    b) Same denoise and redistribution, only this time with more care and denoise only once.

    c) No clipping this time.

    d) Prep: sharpening prior to resizing turned out to be more effective than the other way around.

New take (original take)