I don’t think 24 hours beforehand counts 
- that’s if you’re storing them for looooong periods of time (I used to work in a warehouse for a company that made them).
But you’re 100 per-cent correct, of course - storing them for any REAL length of time at 100 per-cent charge isn’t the best practice. I store mine at 40 per-cent charge in a fire-proof box, along with a shoot load of lipos from my other ventures. And you don’t want to store them without any charge, either.
Yeah, I know that site well - some great stuff on there.
P.S. Sorry about the multiple edits - I can’t seem to type properly today.
This was a very informative topic, especially the linked resources.
Now that I know that batteries have terminals for temperature management (S/T for Fuji, D/T for Panasonic, etc), I am wondering if there is any charger that takes this information into account. All I have checked (other than OM chargers) have just 2 terminals.
Very useful thread.
Tangent: Anyone know how to reboot a dead electric bike battery once it’s too depleted to charge? Apparently it’s old tech and no bike shop has the necessary software anymore. I guess that’s why it was in the sale…
I would not touch it with a 10 foot pole. The reason being: an ebike battery can have a 3–500 Wh capacity. That’s a lot, especially if released quickly, even if you charge it to a fraction, so it can be a fire hazard at the very least if there is a problem. And if it leaked inside, opening it up would put you in contact with caustic liquids that require protective equipment.
If you already have it, I would take it to a qualified recycling facility and say goodbye to it.
Also, if you are just considering it, unless you are buying it locally shipping it can be very dangerous. Most carriers may just refuse to accept it.
(How I know: I shipped a cargo e-bike recently, and learned way more about ADR than I wanted to 
)
Thanks a lot. V helpful. Yes, some stories of fires started by e-bikes prompted me to finally clear out the basement where this has been sitting since my wife decided she didn’t like it on the first ride. I’d tried to revive it a year or so later to donate it to a local charity and spent several months carting it around different bike shops to see if they had the necessary software, to no avail. It can be turned back into the low-end trek hybrid that it’s based on but would need a new rear wheel to replace the current one with the motor at the least.
I have now checked the pictures of at least 100 chargers for various batteries I could find on Amazon. Third party chargers always seem to have 2 pins, so no matter how fancy or smart they claim to be about thermal protection, practically they ignore the T pin information when charging batteries.
This means that
-
charging your expensive OEM battery with a third party charger can potentially damage it (albeit gradually), especially for “fast” chargers,
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third-party batteries will fare even worse, as, according to various dissections I found a net, they rarely (if ever) include a thermistor,
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it is inevitable that third party batteries, especially in third party charges, end up swelling. Careful engineering and quality cells can mitigate this to an extent, but since overheating is always a possibility during charging with 2 pins, it is bound to happen.
Further to my previous post (a while ago, now), I wasn’t so lucky with my second third-party battery purchase – this one barely lasted a couple of months of light use before it refused to hold charge (I did, however, have this battery in storage for quite some time before using it; as such, this could be entirely my own fault as it could have ruined what would otherwise have been a perfectly good one — ooops. 
) Fortunately, I found a good deal on a genuine Fuji brand battery (the original that came with my camera is still going strong).
Not sure if this will help (if you can find one):
Got the info from here:
This is an important topic and obviously a swollen lithium battery of any brand suggests a unreasonable risk of a lithium battery fire that could be catastrophic.
The original OEM batteries can be incredibly expensive and I have bought 3rd party batteries with no issues as an emergency backup battery for both my Canon and Nikon cameras. I got two Enegon batteries and a fantastic USB dual charger for less than $AU50 whereas Canon genuine batteries were $AU180 each for my Canon R7. The Enegon batteries are the main ones I use as I figured if they are going to fail I wanted then to fail under warranty. They have proven to be true workhorses. I have shot over a thousand images per day without the need to switch batteries. I am sure the Canon battery is better but the price made it unreasonable for me to buy the original batteries as a spare.
P.S. reviewing my order for the ENEGON batteries found me a great deal on their power banks and I bought a two pack for just $AU28 from Amazon. This will come in very handy when I am doing a camping safari in Africa next year.
Also I should mention I recently gave a friend my now very old Nikon D40 with the original supplied battery that is still working fine. I am sure it doesn’t hold as much charge as it did on day one but it still works.