Very close to the scene how i remember it
No and I’m not anymore in that italy’s region sorry 
A little late to the party, may be a tad too heavy on the sharpening, but here’s my take:
P1000689_01.RW2.xmp (9.3 KB)
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The dynamic range of the raw image was enormous, so I created three .tif files in RT - one standard, one for highlights and one for shadows. Blended the three using Enblend. I put the result into Hugin and corrected the perspective. Then, in GIMP, I played with luminosity masks and finally applied a slight amount of sharpening to the .jpg, using wavelet decompose (duplicating level 2 of 5 at about 40% opacity).
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First attempt in Darktable. Pushed it slightly too far:
P1000689.RW2 v1.xmp (41.8 KB)
Inspired by Davids work combining multiple TIFFs I created two different versions in Darktable - one for the highlights, another for the subject/shadows. Blended in Photoshop using Multiply and Layer Mask. The results are so much nicer that this will be my default method now for any wide dynamic range image. Also makes it easier in Darktable, not having to worry about blowing highlights whilst maximising detail elsewhere.
P1000689.RW2 HL.xmp (62.0 KB)
P1000689.RW2 SH.xmp (73.6 KB)
@gaaned92
Very impressive job recovering the highlights on that left wall. What methods did you use?
Same here, I tried to match your highlight recovery but did not came close to it ! which software do you use ?
@clind @Soupy
I use ART from @agriggio
You can have a look here fom threads with ART flag or go to
https://bitbucket.org/agriggio/art/wiki/Home
On this page you will find different locations to download the SW.
@agriggio made a very fine job to simplify and organise the tools such as to simplify the workflow
I mainly used tone equalizer, tone curve, “highlight reconstruction/color propagation”, dynamic range compression (slight). Not sure it is the best way to reach the result.
@gaaned92 I’m intrigued enough to try to compile the sources (no package provided for gentoo) but I don’t think I’ll ditch Darktable though 
Perhaps the appimage would be ok?
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