Work, life and other detours [II]

I wasn’t being clear. At the garage facility, I witnessed the drivers still in their out-of-service busses trying to park, but they couldn’t because everyone was trying to do the same thing at the same time. So, they were all working, or supposed to work, but decided to call it in early. Many out-of-service busses drove through the station hours before, then crickets. My adventure just happened to cross paths with the garage.

Yes, the violence and the variety of it is all too real. Multiple times a week, every week. Mental illness and anger certainly, but many cases involve teens and preteens with nothing normal to do.

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That train model looks great Glen. What 3D printer did you use for this?

Elegoo Mars 3. I started the project thinking I’d do it “old school”, machining brass. But the tooling required, lathe, mill, etc., required too much space, and 3d printing is so much easier. However, while good for the “decorative” parts, the frame and running gear still require metal, so I’m back to figuring out some subset of metalwork. Shapeways does brass casting, so that’s an option in the trade space…

I’m documenting my progress here:

https://glenn.pulpitrock.net/blog

mainly so’s I don’t forgets what’s I does… :smile:

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The train sketch is too advanced for me. Do you have something simpler for me to ease into?

I’ll have to look for a decent tutorial, I’ll ask at one of the model railroading forums where a few fusion 360 folk hang out.

CAD is really sort of the opposite of whittling: you just glom together basic shapes until it looks like a horse… :laughing:

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Could be fusion or blender. I think I have a better handle on fusion because the workshop was well done and the blender one was bleh.

I’ve now had a succesful print of Marvin, the Paranoid Android, using my new Ender 3 S1 FDM style printer :slight_smile: Marvin is 85mm high and took around 2 and half hours to print using PLA+ filament.

While a Resin 3D printer would give higher resolution results, with finer layer lines, for my use case (functional prints for RC trucks etc), an FDM printer is ideal. Next on the to do list is some cases for some DIY Piezo element contact mics…

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Resin is good for detail, but you really have to work at “functional” prints, where stiffness, tensile strength, etc., are important. For my locomotive, I’m doing all that in brass, only doing “decorative” parts in resin.

Oh, all this printing discussion has photographic connections. Both of the major ways involve “slicing” a 3D object into layers, which are really high-contrast (black/white) images. FDM printers basically squirt plastic into the shape of each image, layer-by-layer; resin printers actually use the image to expose the liquid resin to UV light to solidify it, layer-by-layer. Resin has a sensitivity to a specific band of light, ~405nm, like a very crappy film… :laughing:

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Recently I acquired K8RA Iambic key #0352 from an estate, that was advertised as such:

Originally the keys came with trapezoid-ish paddles, which the operator found unsuitable:

The rosewood “dog ear” pieces he made are finished nicely and I like the grain, but they were left on during shipment, which unfortunately consisted of a small cardboard box and a single layer of the tiny bubble-wrap. Even after some cyanoacrylate repair work the paddles still felt flimsy and non-tactile.

So I went to the drawing board:

I started by thinking I was going to print a new dog ear. But then I read multiple reviews of the K8RA key online that said the key was fantastic but the paddles were slight and bug-like. Even the dog ears are an improvement as it extends the paddle all the way down to the base, which offers good leverage with a more natural, at-rest hand position. The spacing was definitely too close for me, so the final result has a raised and filleted “boss” area.

I had it printed in solid ABS and will leave it unfinished because the texture is fairly hi-resolution, like a fingerprint.

Works like a charm. If I had these printed in brass it would look nice, but the keyer is a pair of electronic levers, so we won’t go there. On my bench above shown beside the previous paddles.

If you made it this far and still have no idea what the brass device is for… it has two spring loaded levers… one for dot and one for dash…

This type of key is called iambic because when you squeeze the levers, the transmission is “di-dah di-dah di-dah di-dah…” Some people send with the right-hand thumb on the left paddle and the right index on the right paddle. (Apparently most do the reverse, but we want the reverse mechanical advantage to give T time to rest on big thumb). To send an iamb, a “di-dah”, you would have to squeeze by actuating the index and then squeezing with the thumb. To send the reverse troche, a “dah-dit”, the sender activated the thumb on the left dash paddle and squeezed the right dot paddle with the index. Hold down the right paddle for a bit and you get dit-dit-dit-dit-dit, the number 5. Hold the left for dah-dah-dah-dah-dah a zero.

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What’s the difference between a iambic key and a side-sweeper?

haha I’m not sure but I think I’m about to find out?

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Would your key have been made for lefties?
(Q-code QLF = are you keying with your left foot?)

The ones I have used produced a string of dits
when pressed with the right hand thumb, and
a dah when pressed with the right hand index finger…

At least that is what my muscle memory tells me,
and it may well have been a sidesweeper…

Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden
— SM7KU —

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That looks a very nice key. Here’s mine! :laughing:


I never really took to CW, and it’s not a licence requirement in Australia now - but I did have a period when I spent a lot of time on it. (trying to learn it I mean)
The embossed “B” is the logo of an icecream company… that will tell you where that piece of wood came from.
@Claes I did know what the difference was but I’ve forgotten. I think my key is iambic.

Steven VK2STG

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I have to revise my statement: Some people send with the right-hand thumb on the left paddle and the right index on the right paddle. Apparently most do the reverse… but for low-force and better E-T stress balance, we take the reverse mechanical advantage to give big thumb time to rest on T.

I still got my 1st Class license, but I have not been on the air since the first computer entered the house. Back then, military service was compulsory in Sweden, and I was picked for signals training. There was only one badge I really yearned for: the telegraphy medal in gold :slight_smile:. I got it.

My official top score was 35 WPM. No side-sweepers, no bugs, no type-writers – just an old fashioned key (hand pump), a pencil, and paper.

au

Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden

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My father was HA5JD, but he stopped around the time I was born, and he’s been a silent key for over two decades now. :frowning:

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Great work, excellently photographed!

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My grandfather worked Guam for the USN as a RMN3 in WW2; legend has it he was 50 wpm. His dad was a ham and involved himself in early Army Air Corps radar installation.

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Taking my mind of work shenanigans, and giving myself a project to do for the Spring, I’m working on a DIY contact microphone using a Piezo element.

Enclosure designed in Blender, and 3D printed in black PLA+.

While it probably would be possible to fettle together various offcuts of plastic plumbing to fashion an enclosure for a contact mic (as I did for my MK1 DIY Hydrophone) it’s more fun to design & 3d print a bespoke one :slight_smile:

I think I need to tweak the design slightly though, but for the sake of 46grams of PLA+ filament, and 14 minutes print time, it’s came out not too bad :slight_smile:

Just waiting on my delivery of new microphone cable, jack connectors and some plastidip (as well as a new soldering iron since my old 1995 vintage Antex 240V 21W one has died)…

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Not sure if this is a silly question, but what will you listen to/record/analyse with it?