You need the Local Adjustments and use the Settings section to create a mask/shape. @Andy_Astbury1 has (at least) 2 video’s about how to do this (the basics of it):
If you are coming from darktable then it is a bit of getting used to but they are rather powerful. You do need to practise with the Transition Gradient and Shape detection to get the hang of those, I sure did.
If you look at my pp3 you see a very simple version: Selecting the eye to lighten it up a tad. These edits I also make use of it: Grab Landscapes and multiple: editing landscapes to…
You must have merged lagamciezcam into your dev build. I’ve been doing some testing on that one for jdc (the developer) and that one is still being actively developed, tuned and changing all the time (especially the JzChHz parts). Although it is a really nice future addition to the Local Adjustments tab I would not use it for anything serious! Today’s edits might not be shown as intended on tomorrow’s JzChHz/Jzazbz version!
3049 is the latest, clean development build. There’s heckflosse’s dehaze branch that is rather nice but still needs some sort of interface for the feedback (output is send to the terminal atm), which would make it 3088 and there’s jdc’s Color Appearance making it 3284. Both are different branches that need to be merged into the dev branch (I’m all but sure that you know this, just putting this out there for people that don’t and start looking and asking 
)
In general I start with this:
These are done automatically when opening a RAW:
- Auto applied is my base.profile. Based on Andy Astbury’s example. This doesn’t do any edits, but sets some sane starting points (he talks about it in this video)
I use a slightly different one for my own RAWs - Dynamically applied self created denoise settings (only for my own RAWs)
Manually, in this order:
- RAW tab
- Check/change demosaicing settings according to image specs (high frequency vs low frequency vs low ISO vs high ISO),
- set Raw Black Points if needed (heckflosse’s dehaze is a very big help here),
- check Chromatic Aberration Correction → Avoid colour shift,
- Set correct values for, or turn off Capture Sharpening,
- Transform tab
- Check lens geometry,
- adjust Rotate or Perspective,
- crop image if needed/wanted,
- Detail tab
- Spot removal if needed,
- Colour tab
- check/set Colour Management section,
- check/set White balance
- Exposure tab
- Highlight reconstruction/Highlight compression settings if needed.
From this point on, the “artistic” stage, I do not have a fixed order of doing/checking things. I also go back and forth between certain modules a lot of the time in this stage of the edit.
In this specific dog case I used Tone curve 1 and 2 in combination with L*a*b Adjustments to go from a flat image to a nice looking base that has depth. This is one of those back-and-forth combos. I then see that I need some more details in the dog and dial in some Tone mapping.
The eye needs to pop a bit more: Done in Local Adjustments tab using a shape and the Color & Light tool.
Then CIEcam 2002 for the final lightness, colour and contrast related details. Wavelet Levels for the even finer refinements, some of which might not even be visible on a mobile or average monitor (but still 
).
I always end with checking/setting Sharpening and Noise reduction.