Ok. I’ll figure out how to do that
I use an Oly for travel, but a Pan will work too. I think any M43 will be good. It is a bit of a compromise, with size/weight winning.
The kit lens 14-42mm EZ is decent and it fits into a coat pocket for easy walk around compact camera.
For night/indoors, I use the 20mm 1.7f or the 14mm 2.5.
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For price, performance and size, Olympus OM-D E-M10 mark II is my personal favourite, coupled with either the Olympus 17/1.8 or 25/1.8 primes, depending on shooting style and the potential subjects. The camera is actually quite feature-packed and performant.
Just another option to throw to the mix… but given your preference towards Pana, you might do well to go with the GX9.
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For your budget, essentially all previous-generation crop bodies are possible if you buy used, and leave room for lenses. Which is great news, since the image quality of those is largely identical to the current-gen models, just with minor differences in ancillary areas such as subject tracking and video modes.
You’ll have to decide what style of MILC you’d like? Bigger and “professional” (Olympus E-M1, Fuji X-T2, Panasonic G9)? Or smaller and “compact” (Olympus E-m5 II, Fuji X-T20/E3, Panasonic GX9, Sony A6400, Canon M50).
My choice for particularly good value would be a Fuji X-T20 or Canon M50 for their somewhat larger (APS-C) sensor and more modern (24 MP generation) sensors, and selling on MPB for less than €500. The Fuji has a more extensive, but also more expensive lens system. The Canon system is more or less end-of-life, but that is also what makes it terrific value. But really any of the other 24 MP APS-C sensors or 20 MP MFT sensors will work just as well. Cameras nowadays are very very good and you really don’t need to sweat the details to decide between them. If one of them appeals to emotionally, that’s reason enough. They’re really mostly equivalent.
But make sure to leave enough room for lenses, too! Allocating roughly two thirds of the money to lenses is a sound starting point. To start out, a general-use zoom (Fuji 18-55, Canon 18-150) and a bright prime (Fuji XC 35 or Sigma 35 f/1.4 , Canon 35 or Sigma 35 f/1.4) should fit your budget and should get you going. Again, buy used to save money. But with used lenses, buy them from a store that offers returns and test them before you commit. Lenses are much more fragile than bodies, and last you longer. Again, MPB is good source for used gear, or maybe your local camera store if they have a used section.
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In case you’re in the U.K., usedlens.co.uk is a useful agglomeration search site for the many camera chain stores, auction sites and smaller shops that sell secondhand. There’s also this list of sellers’ websites Where to buy film cameras - lightbox.photo
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For small and light you may look into old Pen F lenses. Over the years I have acquired a bit of a collection of them. One can get them in very good condition and they are adapted to µFT via a thin, minimal adapter.
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I’ve really been enjoying my Ricoh GR iii. Not sure it meets all the criteria listed, the lens is sharp and renders color well.
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Keep in mind that small and lightweight mft cameras often suffer from shutter shock. In my olympus em5m3 there is a special setting to prevent shutter shock but it was not on by default. I have an em10m1 that does not have this feature. Maybe the newer models do.
I recommend the e-m 10 mark iv, but with the 12-45/4 pro. Most of the pics on my pixelfed were taken with that lens. Usually there are cashbacks, it’s worth waiting a bit.
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One very good thing about the 20MP M4/3 cameras is their video capability. Specially in a travel and family context. While the X-T20 and such can also shoot 4k30 they have no stabilization whilst the M4/3 cameras have an excellent one. Of course there are stabilized lenses for Fuji, including the kit lens, but it won’t be as good.
The boat footage here really surprised me with how stable it was. Gave me gas for a used GX9 
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Looking at Darktable 4.2 on my PC again, I now see that all of the custom color calibration presets I’d created for my cameras that are normally auto applied based on the exif data have disappeared with the update. I hadn’t noticed, so thanks for pointing me to that issue. Bit of a pain
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They have opened up the X-mount to third-parties, so both choice and price should improve. I believe that, so far, Sigma and Tamron are on board.
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Thanks, that is good to know. I have now narrowed it down to Panasonic GX9, Sony A6100, and Fujifilm X-S10. 3rd party lenses (eg the 30mm prime by Sigma) differ by ± 5g and 1mm, and have the same price for all mounts. IBIS makes the Fuji especially attractive.
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I stumbled across this page the other day. It seems that Viltrox and a few others have joined the X-mount party.
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For a Fuji-X you nowadays also have access to lenses from TTartisan, 7artisan, and Laowa, for instance their prod-into-ant-hill-macro-lens: Laowa 24mm f/14 2X Macro Probe - LAOWA Camera Lenses
Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden
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I really like the files from my older Sony Nex series camera - an ancestor of the a6100. I also have an Olympus of similar age but but find the Sony files much more flexible. I suspect the newer Olys have caught up a bit though.
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After trying out many cameras in person, I went for the GX9 (and was briefly tempted for the Olympus E-M10). I am very happy with my choice, the camera and I became instant friends. Thanks again everyone for all the recommendations and detailed advice.
(I am looking for a bag now, recommendations welcome, see hiking hip bag recommendation for gx9 + few lenses)
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Great choice. One question, which lens did pick to start out with? (If you didn’t have m4/3 lenses already that is)
Which lenses did you end up getting?
@hatsnp, @bastibe: I got the Panasonic Lumix 25 mm F1.7 (H-H025E-K) for now. I am very satisfied with the sharpness and the AF speed, I will use it for a while before expanding my lens range.
Some sample images with this lens (absolutely minimal correction: lens, CA, exposure, filmic):
The subjects are not otherwise interesting (just walking around my neighborhood, weather is bleak), but they show depth of field at f1.7 and lens sharpness. Mild diffuse & sharpen can improve sharpness without artifacts.
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