How to create my own "Workspace" in DarkTable

Extremely helpful - I’m not sure that I would have understood this when I first installed DT, but just now it made a lot of sense, and answered quite a few questions I puzzled over.

You know, I spent forever trying to get to “Preferences”. Because of how Apple does things, I assumed that on my macOS screen, I could click on “darktable” in the top left corner, and “preferences” would show up. From watching your video, I now know how to get to “preferences”. I think it would make more sense to be able to click on the top left of the screen to get to preferences, as that seems to be typical for how programs work under macOS.

As far as I know, I have never deliberately modified my “preferences”, but after watching this video, I think the third selection, using the raw file and not using the embedded jpg, will help.

My camera, a Leica M8.2, creates horrible jpg images. I always shoot (only) in raw. I doubt that any embedded image would be useful for my editing.

Doesn’t matter - I will go through this video again, and set my own version of DT accordingly (to the final way he suggests, working from the raw image).

After watching the first video three times, with the video playing on one computer while I adjusted DT accordingly on my main computer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODGxKutkcM4&t=269s
…I have changed the setting to “scene referred”.

For “auto-apply chromatic adaptation defaults” I have changed from “legacy” to “modern” (I wondered why it said “legacy” before…). Maybe in the future, “modern” could become a default.

Last night I went back to “LightTable” and the bottom left of my screen looks like this:
Screen Shot 2021-12-26 at 12.06.06
Is this what I’m supposed to see?
Can it show thumbnails across the bottom by narrowing down the range being displayed?

Also, somehow I confused “LightTable” such that the first thumbnail image displayed on the left on the bottom of the screen is actually the most recent image I captured with my camera. Somehow I reversed the order. I’m not sure how this happened. I looked at DarkTable Preferences, and didn’t show anything that likely caused this. …But while searching for why this happened, some how I turned on “Map”, and when I went back to “DarkRoom” the thumbnail images went back to being listed correctly.

When I click on an image at the bottom of the screen, all the “thumbnails” across the bottom shift position - can I get them remain stationary, and only the image I clicked on would be highlighted, without moving all of them to the right or left?

Enough for now. Thanks - not only are things working better now, I even understand why, but I’d hate to have to explain it to someone else.

The bottom panel you are seeing is a timeline showing graphs with the amount of photos at a particular time.

This option is on top of the thumbnails. Sort by filename/date/whatever and the triangle at the right is for reverse order.

grafik

I don’t know this behaviour. We need someone else to answer this. :man_shrugging:

Thanks - I was fixated on the images at the bottom, thinking this worked like my other editor. Solved.

As to the images moving back and forth, once I did the first thing you suggested, apparently when I click on any image down in the bottom of “darkroom” mode, it places that thumbnail directly below the larger image that opens up in the main screen.

Apparently DarkTable expects me to select an image to edit in “lighttable” mode, and then select “darkroom” mode. If I have a lot of images, some of them may be well off to the right or left at the bottom of the “darktable” screen, and to find them I need to go back to “lighttable” mode, rather than moving all those thumbnails one way or the other. It’s different than what I’m used to, but perfectly logical.

Thank you once again. No more questions for a while. :slight_smile:
The more I understand, the more I enjoy the program.

  • I currently use DxO PhotoLab 5 for processing all images from my Nikons, my Fuji X100f, and my Leica M10.
  • I use DarkTable for processing images from my Leica M8.2
  • I also still have Lightroom, Affinity Photo, Raw Therapee, Luminar 4, Color Efex Pro 4, Photomatix Pro 6, and others I’ve forgotten about (such as free editors provided by Fuji and Nikon), but I don’t use them.

Anything worthwhile requires a lot of effort, and I guess I’ve only gotten used to “the basics”. To me, that is a huge start. I suspect DarkTable is doing a lot more for me automatically than PhotoLab, or I have suddenly become a much better photographer, along with my old Leica M8.2 suddenly working better than before. I’m pleasantly surprised by how well those images look when first opened in DarkTable. I wasn’t expecting that.

1 Like

I think I am a couple of minutes ahead of you in this journey, so let me assure you that this feeling of ‘enjoy the program’ does not diminish as you learn more. Almost every day for the past year or so I have observed to my self, while using dt, such feelings as ’ that’s impressive’ - or words to that effect. And that is in the environment where I have tried a number of the alternative raw image editors that you listed.

1 Like

I don’t think that this is likely to happen for me, although I certainly am appreciating how well things work. To me, all of these editors are “tools”, and I’ve always thought one should use “the best tool for the job”. DT is more like a full toolbox than a tool, and with few exceptions, it seems to be able to do the things my other editors do. As I learn it, the interface becomes logical - all “issues” so far have been me, not the editor.

I am spoiled by “control points” and now “control lines” in PhotoLab, but I don’t yet know that DT can’t accomplish those things using a different technique. When I scan and edit my old B&W negatives, I sometimes have a zillion “dust specs” to deal with. Eventually I need to learn how DT deals with that. If I capture infrared color images, the resulting file has a very deep red cast - most editors have a white balance tool that isn’t strong enough, but PhotoShop has one that works. Then too, I end up wanting to do “channel switching”, and I don’t yet know if DT can do that… but this is far off in the future. I like what I can accomplish with DT, and as of today, it does a wonderful job of importing images from my Leica M8.2 camera, looking almost “finished” before I even do any editing. That was a very pleasant surprise.

I haven’t even started to edit this image, but what I see on the screen appears to be completely finished.

Until I watched the videos linked to above, every image I opened needed some work. All this needs is for me to activate the “watermark”. DT makes my Leica M8.2 camera look quite nice - and this was taken with a 7Artisans 35mm f/2 lens that sells for only $280 brand new.

When/if you have found an acceptable solution to the ‘zillion “dust specs (sic)”’ using dt, I would be very keen to copy your approach, as I have a similar issues on the large portfolio of slides I’m in the process of scanning. Vuescan won’t touch the Kodachrome ones and Nikon Scan (from decades ago) is sometimes too aggressive. SilverFast has, so I’m told, a good solution but for other reasons I won’t got there.

One reason why your Leica images look good with dt is because they are from a Leica, surely ?

I had a brief look at what those are, and they seem to be local adjustments. darktable has both parametric and drawn masks for local adjustments, and they’re available on almost every module.

darktable has a Retouch module with a heal brush, but that’s very manual. We’ve had a thread on using the infrared channel from viewscan as a mask for gmic inpaint to repair spots, but I don’t remember where that left off.

I capture color infrared with my converted X-T20. I use a custom white balance that was provided by the shop that converted it, and the channel swapping is done in the Color Calibration module. There is a preset to swap R & B channels.

Isn’t that the good ol’ Nik u point, rebranded? Darktable doesn’t really have anything exactly like it. But if you dig that you should really check out the RawTherapee nightlies. The local adjustments in it works much the same way. See here:

I agree with that, but the M8 was Leica’s first digital camera, released in 2006, improved as the M8.2 a few years later, and while I love it, many people don’t. It’s certainly not the world famous Leica lenses, as I had an inexpensive made-in-China-lens mounted. Get the exposure correct, don’t go past 640 in ISO, and handle carefully, and the results are usually excellent.

My negatives have been in a 3-ring binder with glassine pages holding the negatives - most of the negs slid right out, and I used a “rocket air blower” and if necessary, a brush to clean them, holding them over a small “light table”. I bought an “antistatic cloth” from B&H Photo which I could use to wipe off the negatives, and minimize the amount of dust that wanted to stick to them. Some negatives felt like the were “stuck” in the glassine, for who knows what reason, and they had an overabundance of “stuff” that needed cleaning, followed by an hour of editing to remove the dust. I don’t have a good answer, but if I continue to shoot film, I will be especially careful to keep the images clean - and have the blower, the brush, and the electro-static cloth handy in case they’re needed.

The Plustek scanner comes with SilverFast, and it’s supposed to be able to remove dust from color images, but not from B&W. I installed and updated the SilverFast, but haven’t tried it yet.

PhotoLab is the only image processor I know of that has “control points” and “control lines” as part of their “local adjustments”. I don’t know anything about the tools you noted in DT, but when I get better at the basics, I’ll probably look into them. I get spoiled easily - having used the PhotoLab tools, I expect to be able to use them on my non Leica M8 images.

My M8.2 has no anti-IR filter built into the camera, so it works well for both near-IR and pure-IR without “white” light. For B&W, the Monochrom filter seems to do quite well. I’ll remember what you said about channel swapping and the Preset to swap R&B channels. Does it also swap the Green channel?

Since DxO bought the Nik Collection from Google, they expanded it to do many other things, so yes, you are mostly right, but Control Points can do much more than Nik allowed. Speaking of Nik, since Google released it to the public for free, if you search, you will find placed to download it - for free. Control Lines. are something new.

I downloaded and installed Raw Therapee several years ago. I have version 5.8, so maybe I should update. Fun program. Can DT do the same things?

It’ll swap whatever you’d like.

Hello, it seems my question related to the module layout management should be posted here :wink:
I am currently (re)discovering DrakTable, and realy enjoy it. BTW I am facing an issue I cannot solve by myself. I have been trying to define my “own workspace” as stated in the thread title, by setting up a personnal module layout.
Therefore I created my own preset, and now I try to personnalize it. However, it seems I am facing a bug since the “+” button doesn’t offer any option to add a widget (or a module depending I am in Quick Access -not in the screenshot- or another module group)!
Indeed, when I click on the “+” button I don’t get the long list in which I am supposed to choose:

I tried to do this on DarkTable v3.8 respectivly on my MBA and Mac Mini, both running Big Sur 11.6.2.
Any advise to get rid of that bug (or my misunderstanding :grin: )?

One more info if it can help anyone resolving my problem: I can add or delete modules, but still cannot select a widget/module for each group:

I even tried the latest OSX build from @MStraeten but I still face the problem.

widgets are just usable for quick access group.

Yes. As explained I cannot add widgets to quick access group, nor modules in base, new or whatever other group :pensive:

Sometimes a short screen recording is better than words. Here is an example of the problem I am facing: no list of widgets or modules poping when clicking the “+” button under Quick Access or another group.

https://mesphotosetvideos.fr/CannotAddWidgetorModule.mov

I can only assume this is a mac-specific issue (perhaps with gtk). This works fine on Linux.

Ok, I will try with an older version of DT

N.B. : this is a new installation, not an update to v3.8

not an osx issue in general - it works fine on my machine.
Which dt version was used to define the newnew preset?
What happens if you define a new preset?

First with the official v3.8, and after that your latest OSX version :wink:
I installed an official v3.6.1 to check, but got the same result. And creating other presets, from scratch or by duplicating one, do not change anything.