The more I look at your crop, the more I like it.
@david Sorry if maybe I’m telling you something that you already know, but I’ve been using Gimp for many years and I only recently discovered that you can rotate an image without blurring it. All you have to do is to use the Rotate Tool with “Interpolation: NoHalo”. It’s not the default setting in the Gimp, and until I discovered it, I was terrified whenever I had to use the Rotate Tool.
Forgive me if my comment is not helpful.
I think 1:1 works well in this case to highlight the nice geometric shapes.
I blurred the background (left and top) because I felt it was a distraction from the architecture. I also reduce the contrast in that area.
Thanks however for your suggestion.
No, sorry. I wasn’t talking about the blurred background… I noticed that - unlike me and others - you haven’t straightened the building (which is crooked), so I thought that you didn’t do it because in Gimp this can be problematic.
EDIT: And of course not all buildings need necessarily to be straightened…
A level of abstraction that walks on a step further. Wonderfully creative edit. I really love it. Thank you.
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In the Censorize module, I made the perimeter of the image with the path tool +Ctrl, decreased the dimensions a little and put the following parameters.
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I never used this module. But congratulations for having used it in a semantic/communicating way. Beautiful.
It’s the first time for me too, and I promise you that I didn’t intend to Censorize any of your beautiful photography. 
I was just playing…
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Here is your 70’ travel guide book colours version
_DSC6391_01.NEF.xmp (14.8 KB)
I’d have used colour zones but since I’m curious about channel mixer, tried to stick to that.
With reworked contrast and local contrasts.
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I re-read the Manual about Channel mixer today and still I can’t say I understood how to use it. The Manual is very good, the problem is me.
Nice edit.
I’m not really sure that I’m good at those 
but I tried!
I exported a B&W version of my original version, then a saturated but lower contrast colour version, then brought them in to GIMP.
There I applied the ‘waterpixel’ effect to the color image, then overlaid it on the B&W image with blending mode ‘darken only’. A little bit graphic.
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It’s kind of un-intuitive but actually simple. (edit: it took me ages to understand it to start with!)
In this view
I’m on the “R” tab. That means I’m controlling the amount of red in the pixels.
The three sliders let you control the amount of red in the red, green and blue parts of the image.
I find it useful to bear in mind that in general, it’s best to keep adjustments balanced.
By that I mean that if, in the screenshot above, I slide the “B” slider down to say -0.200 to reduce red in blue areas of the image, I will slide the “R” slider up to +1.200. Otherwise I get an overall color cast.
But this way, I get a bluer sky (actually more cyan as that’s the opposite of red) and the reddish parts of the image just get a little more red.
To take another example, if I wanted the red areas to be yellowish, I would move to the “G” tab, and increase the “R” slider to increase the amount of green in the red parts of the image, making them more yellow (R+G=yellow), but I would compensate that increase by reducing one (or both) the the other sliders in the “G” tab.
I know this is sort of off topic, but maybe it helps a little? 
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For me it was the three figures that grabbed me, so I cropped it to a vertical 6x4 frame. I use the rotate and perspective tool to ensure vertical lines and used two instances of D&S to demosaic sharpen and apply lens deblur. I have come to prefer this over other sharpening methods.
_DSC6391.NEF.xmp (13.2 KB)
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