Agreed. I have been shooting with D600 for 5 years and last week I bought an another D600 camera body for 539 euros. Shutter count 4004, looks like never used, battery age 0, Meike vertical grip and 1 month warranty (given by the shop). IMHO if you are shooting with Nikon, it doesn’t make sense to save some money buying older stuff.
I was actually looking for an used D750, but prices are here in Finland still 1000+ euros.
I’ll sell you my D750, but I can’t ship international. 
Well, @Janne, the asking price for a D750 body is about the same in Sweden.
@gadolf: Are used lenses very expensive in your country? For example the Canon 50mm 1.8 II?
In Sweden, it can be bought used for about USD 80.
(But I presume that postage from Europe down to you would be quite high.)
Around USD 155 
EDIT: Used: around USD 105
EDIT2:
Probably. Plus, there is the customs. If it falls under their radar, the tax will double the price, if not more. Please, let me know when you come to Rio 
Having said that, and still asserting that the D600 is the best full frame on the market considering price/performance ratio, I am selling mine to get a D810 second hand.
The reason is simply that I’m considering this DSLR as likely the last one I’ll ever have; the camera that I’m more likely to pick it up when I go for a walk or a ride etc is the considerably smaller/lighter Fuji with a 35mm or 18mm lens. But I want to still have a DSLR for the pure pleasure of having the highest quality; or next time I go to Svalbard (I went there last September and it was tragic for my Fuji; had to swap batteries like crazy, they lasted about ten minutes or so).
So I want to have the latest & greatest iteration of the Nikon pro-level full frame cameras – without obviously spending the crazy amount of money for the new D850(*). So if anybody living in Europe wants my D600 with ~48k shutter actuations and with shutter mechanism replaced under warrany I’m giving it away for six hundred euros.
(*) D4 and D5 are on a different league.
You’re right, and I didn’t take attention to that.
I made the following test: put a 18% greycard on the floor, near a well lit glass wall (sunny day outside, but no direct sunlight into the scene), set up the dial to “P”, checked that the camera was accepting speed/aperture settings and shoot 0, +1/3, +2/3, +1 EV exposures.
In Darktable, the histogram for each raw are:
0EV:
+1/3 EV
+2/3 EV
+1 EV
It seems there’s a light metering issue with the camera, isn’t it?
To tease apart your assertion, what specific thing about these histograms say that to you? Right now, all I see is some clump of image data, moving as I would expect for EV compensation…
Post the raw, that’ll help…
I expected to see the histogram spike in the middle when there was no exposure compensation, since I’m aiming a 18% grey subject.
Here they go:
0EV
IMG_4236.CR2 (10.4 MB)
+1/3 EV
IMG_4237.CR2 (10.4 MB)
+2/3 EV
IMG_4238.CR2 (10.4 MB)
+1 EV
IMG_4239.CR2 (10.5 MB)
Out grocery shopping with wife, will look when we get home…
Thanks!
Hi again!
Which metering mode do you use:
evaluative, center-weighted, partial, spot?
Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden
I used evaluative for the grey card shots.
EDIT: Changed to spot and took a grey card shot again and the histogram is a bit more underexposed:
I’m sorry about this, but the previous histogram images are considering a base curve applied to the image.
Turning it off, the 0 EV histogram is like this:
and the +1 EV
Could you redo your raw files with spot metering (and the typical grey card shot considerations)?
Also, +2/3 EV and +1 EV have both “1/15” marked on the histogram… EXIF error?
Would the 0 EV be enough?
_MG_4250.CR2 (10.4 MB)
What would they be?
Don’t have a clue. On Digikam it shows the same way.
@gadolf, the camera metering works under the assumption that illumination of pixels in a typical normal photograph averages out to middle grey.
Therefore, if you take a photo of a grey card with camera suggested exposure, its histogram will be bunched in the middle. So your camera’s metering is working as expected.
If you take a photo of a white card, the output should be a grey card and the histogram will be the same!
… but it doesn’t, right?
Take a look at the last histogram I showed (with base curve turned off). I shot that one without any exposure compensation (0 EV), with the camera suggested exposure. Shouldn’t the histogram be in the middle?
Every camera have certain tendencies. The manufacturer likes to give some signature so to speak. Your camera seem to be underexposing a stop. This does not mean malfunction. Once you know this, and if you don’t like it, then you can correct it manually.
Also, I think that you should apply the base curve to the photo for the histogram evaluation. Because the expected output is a jpeg for manufacturers. Thus the exposure is also computed with basic adjustments in mind.