Old camera model


Have you got a “nifty-fifty”? I.e. Canon’s 50mm 1.8 lens?

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(Gustavo Adolfo) #23

Only on special occasions :wink:


Yes, I know, but for now it’s the only one. It’s a 35-80mm 4-5.6.

To all, what do you think of the image quality?


(Mica) #24

It looks good. But its daylight with not very deep shadows :slight_smile:

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(Gustavo Adolfo) #25

The ISO 1000 is extremely noisy. Is it within the standard norm?


(Mica) #26

It does not look too noisy to me. It looks a bit soft, but that’s the lens :wink:

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(Alessandro Amato Del Monte (Aadm)) #27

Congrats on the 5D! It may not be at the same level as a D600 sensor-wise but it still is a pro-full frame camera that surely will deliver a great experience. I also recommend you find a second-hand 50mm 1/.8 to get the maximum out of this camera.

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(Gustavo Adolfo) #28

Thanks for the tip.

Worth mentioning that this is the Mark I (or classic) model… a dinossaur.


(Mica) #29

Just remember its the skill of the photographer that makes great photos!


(Alessandro Amato Del Monte (Aadm)) #30

What Mica said! A friend of mine still uses a D700, a dinosaur like the 5D mk1. Everytime I go to the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition I always find some great photo shot with a D300 for example! And best of all: one of my favourite photographer ever, Galen Rowell, he shot with the lightest and cheapest SLR of those times, maybe a Nikon FM2?, with equally “cheap” lenses, i.e. never the 80-200 f2.8 but the f3.5-5.6 zooms etc.

Having said that, equipment is obviously important but if you have a restricted budget I think you made the right choice to go look for an old pro full frame camera, i.e. the top of the line of a few years ago, rather than a more recent “enthusiast” camera.

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(Gustavo Adolfo) #31

Thanks for everyone’s kind words!
I was very insecure about this deal because I bought this camera on the Internet, on a local e-bay like site.
But the guy who sold it seems to be a honest guy, and now, with your words, I’m beginning to relax.
Let’s have fun!


(Gustavo Adolfo) #32

I need some advise here.

While starting to edit a completely flawed shot (extremely under exposed), I noticed a very strong noise pattern. Is it normal, considering the camera was set up like this:


EDIT: The neutral histogram:


EDIT 2: The neutral look:


(Ingo Weyrich) #33

Looks like something you can fight in RT using the line denoise tool. Can you provide the raw file?

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(Gustavo Adolfo) #34

Sure. But is this an issue with the used, old camera I bought? :thinking:

_MG_4145.CR2 (10.3 MB)


(Shreedhar Inamdar) #35

Not at all! In fact it is really impressive how much natural color you can extract from such a severely underexposed shot. Even the noise looks very good to me. The focus is missed though. Dog’s eyes are out of focus.

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(Flössie) #36

@gadolf Congrats to your upgrade! I know how you feel: If you spend a lot of money for something you were after for a long time you are overcritical as soon as you get the gadget. And more so, if you bought it used. Wait for two weeks and you’ll automatically relax as you start to focus on the benefits over your old gear.

As the others already said: IQ is high and noise is low, no need to worry. When it comes to a good lens to start with the 50 1.8 is the natural choice (I used to own the II, nowadays it would be the STM), but if you are into low light you might get a used 50 1.4 for just a few bucks more on ebay.

It’s a pitty that there’s no current Magic Lantern for the 5D classic. But the Pro cameras have most functions already built in, I heard.

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It’s better to use a high ISO than to underexpose a low ISO.

Because you underexposed the low ISO, when you recover the shadows on (some?) 5D Classics, you get strong banding. Mine has banding like yours, while the one used for DPReview’s Throwback Thursday doesn’t, for some reason.



When you’re shooting with an (old) Canon camera, you should get the exposure (including ISO) right when you capture the picture. If you adjust it in post several stops, you will end up with nasty banding noise as evident here.

For example if you get the exposure you want with ISO 1600, you will get much better result if you set ISO to 1600 in camera than if you shoot the image with ISO 100 and boost exposure 4 stops in post. This doesn’t really apply to modern non-Canon cameras which are either virtually ISO-invariant (very little difference between in camera set ISO and exposure boosted in post) or have two different “base ISOs” (makes things more complicated).



Agreed. I have been shooting with D600 for 5 years and last week I bought an another D600 camera body for 539 euros. Shutter count 4004, looks like never used, battery age 0, Meike vertical grip and 1 month warranty (given by the shop). IMHO if you are shooting with Nikon, it doesn’t make sense to save some money buying older stuff.

I was actually looking for an used D750, but prices are here in Finland still 1000+ euros.


(Mica) #40

I’ll sell you my D750, but I can’t ship international. :slight_smile:



Well, @Janne, the asking price for a D750 body is about the same in Sweden.

@gadolf: Are used lenses very expensive in your country? For example the Canon 50mm 1.8 II?
In Sweden, it can be bought used for about USD 80.
(But I presume that postage from Europe down to you would be quite high.)