If I want in camera JPEG look-alike, then I use base curve. There is a profile in the base curve for Canon and Canon EOS 6D.
For art reproduction I use base curve and color calibration together with SpyderCheckr. The results when printing are very close to the original paintings.
I took some raw files and JPEG earlier this day. Check them out. Some with base curve, some with filmic. The most time consuming was to add NR, contrast equilizer x2 and sharpening. CC0 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RcKcdH9PjGucOcOWmUG7kuS5LWdD8Qm-/view?usp=sharing
But I prefer my own preset.
The raw files from my DJI Mavic Pro is another story. In that case I recognize what you are saying.