Trouble with end result when fine detail in front of a bright sky results in unnatural looking results.

For some very specific situations - I’m having trouble getting a “good enough” result from darktable.

For some landscape shots - where for example where there are trees & leaves in-front of a bright sky - processing results in very unnatural results.

I’m a darktable newbie with only about 5 months of use - but have been able to use it to great effect so far - except for this one situation which I have come across often with landscape photos.

I’ve been trying to identify why and how maybe I can use darktable tools to process a “good enough” natural looking resulting image. If anyone has any tips & tricks - I would be forever grateful.

If I could understand the initial why - then I might have a chance to understand how best to use Darktable tools to get the result.

Darktable straight out of the raw image - shows the tree branch/leaves detail as a pseudo colour either blue - purple or similar. It also seems to blur such detail into the background.

The JPEG out of camera seems to keep the sky as a consistent colour and fades the detail into the sky.

RawTherapee straight out of the raw image - shows the detail as a slightly more course version of the out of camera JPEG - at least initially.

RawTherapee with a bit of effort can be manipulated to show fairly reasonable results which are “good enough” natural looking.

Darktable on the other hand can also be manipulated but the results do not look as good or natural looking. (the system won’t allow me to have more than four images per post - so I will add the Darktable image in a post below)

I suspect that there are two issues with my Darktable process. One is how I’m treating the pseudo colour manipulations in the first place dealing with the sky - and the second may be how I’m defining the mask that manipulates the sky. I’m using similar processes for Darktable and RawTherapee so I would have expected similar(ish) results?

If anyone has any Darktable tips & tricks - I would be forever grateful.

Darktable on the other hand can also be manipulated but the results do not look as good or natural looking.

I suspect that there are two issues with my Darktable process. One is how I’m treating the pseudo colour manipulations in the first place dealing with the sky - and the second may be how I’m defining the mask that manipulates the sky. I’m using similar processes for Darktable and RawTherapee so I would have expected similar(ish) results?

If anyone has any Darktable tips & tricks - I would be forever grateful.

If you provide the image it will help… there is some pretty bad overexposure and chromatic AB. But It should be able to be improved…

Not really…

Hopefully, this link will work…? Link to the CR3: 1X1A2465.CR3

Are you using filmic? I think the current defaults in the color preservation options can give problems like this. You could try keeping v6, but set the other option to “none”.

Also, try switching off filmic and using sigmoid instead - not always better but a different approach that can work well.

I’ll download your file in a moment… :grinning:

I’ll take a look…you can just upload direct to the site using the little upload widget in the reply box… You should just also do a quick edit and paste in a CC license so people can do an edit with your permission…

Yes, when I open the image in dt with mostly defaults, I get this:

Disabling filmic rgb and enabling sigmoid, gets me this:

While staying with filmic, but changing one setting gets this:

Hope this might help! I find either of these a much better starting point for further editing.

My fun in ART and GIMP

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Thanks - much appreciated. That is very useful. Would you yourself start with sigmoid or fimic as a typical development process?

That result is very usable. What parts did you manipulate in gimp? What I’d appreciate is where do you draw the line between what you do in Darktable and what you do in Gimp?

You need lens correction… Is your lens supported in lens fun or is there an LCP available for it?

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Glad if it helps. I personally almost always use sigmoid now, as I just like the results and also prefer the effect that its contrast slider has, but TBH filmic vs sigmoid is very much up to personal preferences.

This is a quick edit in my usual basic workflow - you can load the .xmp file in dt’s lighttable view if you like, or I can explain my “process” a little if you like :slightly_smiling_face:


1X1A2465(1).CR3.xmp (9.1 KB)

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1X1A2465.CR3 (36.2 MB)

image

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There is a setting there - see screenshot, but it doesn’t actually make much difference to the sky, IMO.


Edit: forgot screenshot!

Camera and Lens is supported in Lensfun. Lens was Canon RF 24-105 F4 L IS USM.

Sorry about making too many posts - I just noticed that in typing out my post above I said I prefer filmic - meant to say prefer sigmoid over filmic… needed to set the record straight :man_facepalming:

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Thanks for the xmp. I’ll have a play with the xmp and if/(when) I have any questions I’ll post them below. Appreciate your time.

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I didn’t use either for this one… (sigmoid or filmic)

1X1A2465.CR3.xmp (13.0 KB)

Tried a slightly different approach…


1X1A2465.CR3.xmp (30.6 KB)

And if it is really blown its relatively easy to mask and you can use the watermark module to do a sky fill/swap

Thanks for the xmp. I’ll have a play. If not using filmic or sigmoid - do you use another technique to balance mid-grey and the top & bottom points?

Appreciate your time.

My suggestions start at the camera. The sky is overexposed in the image. Then the camera is at the max aperture. Those two will make branches not be clear in a raw developer. I would also explore how your camera would handle the same conditions (looks like an overcast day), but at a higher ISO (eg 800). I think it will reduce some electronic noise.

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