HEICs are about 2 mb file size. If I try to send them from my iPhone to my PC, something automatically converts them to jpg, anyway. I searched and found that if I save it to the Files app on the phone as a compressed (zip) file, I can then get it to my PC, uncompress it, and have the HEIC file to work with in darktable. So, it’s a pain in the ass, but I have it figured out.
So, now to “raw”. The phone saves raw files as DNGs. A similar scene to my HEIC test takes about 30 MB. I can get it to my PC via Google Drive, but it is too large for Gmail. I can import the file to darktable and see the photo in the Lighttable thumbnails. But when I try to open it in darkroom, it says it cannot be opened: Please check that it is from a supported camera (to paraphrase the error dialog). Can iPhone raw DNGs be used in darktable?
Currently, not without patching rawspeed (or, perhaps using the “rename to .CR3” hack in the meantime; however, this hacky way will require redoing all the database references once the regular way starts working, so use at your own risk…).
Finally, you can of course also put them through Adobe DNG Converter and they will work as well.
So, I played around in darktable with a pretty good HEIC photo I took in Acadia National Park in August. It was difficult to improve on the original, and when I came to something I liked, I did a snapshot and compared them, directly. I some ways, the original was better than my edit. I’m sure this means I could do a better set of changes with darktable.
No, I took the picture myself. Wait, I’ll check and see what I can find out…
The EXIF data says it’s 4032 by 3024. IDK, maybe the conversion to jpg to post them here screwed something up. They don’t look bad to me, though. ???
Even later: It looks like I have confused myself, too. Looking at both images in darktable, it appears that I edited both. I had thought that one of them was just imported, then exported to jpg, but both say that darktable modules have been applied. Maybe I just need to delete that post and start over.
@123sg , thanks very much for pointing out that my photo does not look so good. This seems to be a common problem. I did a web search and came up with many “hits”. I used this article to change two settings which should help in the future:
Unfortunately, I took hundreds of photos on a once-in-a-lifetime vacation in August, and every one of them had the “bad” settings.
It wasn’t so much that it didn’t look ‘good’. more just that wasn’t as much detail as I expected for a modern camera.
Ouch - sorry to hear that. Reminds me of a similar error I made some years back… It’s easy to say I guess, but personally, I wouldn’t worry about it too much. You still have the photos, and there’s no doubt that they are more than good enough for most applications.
Just think how bad it would be if you’d dropped it in that lake! No images at all…
Mine was. I had a new compact camera, bought for the trip, many years back. l set it to 5MP (it was a 12MP camera) to save space on the card. Not the best idea, but to make things worse, that camera had a bright screen. I didn’t realise I was seeing the screen brightness, and took all my photos with the exposure compensation set to -1 or -2. Weeks later, I got them on the computer, and they were all really dark, and while I could brighten them, the a lot of detail was lost in those underexposed, downsizesd jpgs. Looking back, I was a bit clueless sometimes back then!
That looks good to me! Nice and detailed. What was the main setting difference I wonder? I have a phone with a camera but… it has 5mp, no autofocus (or anyfocus) and a scratched lens! So I’m not really familiar with modern camera phones…