I really don’t see much problem with the snow or WB curiously enough…taking a sample with the old wb… 117, 116, 124… as shot…only assessing WB and getting all other modules out of the picture…
Camera reference and CC module
123 122 129
So not identical but also pretty much the same channel ratios…
This is done with the standard matrix provided by DT…
Interesting approach and really good results! Leads to a very lean use of modules. Thanks for sharing. Would be interested if it works for other images too.
I am using an
I have added
color balance rgb - basic colorfulness
diffuse or sharpen - fast sharpen
exposur 1.00
I have created some Fuji-like styles using darktable-chart.
The special feature is that they use also the scene-referred workflow and filmic RGB.
Here is the jpg-ooc in Classic Chrome:
and here the jpeg developed from the RAW:
There is a style that creates the conditions:
Fuji F49__BASE.dtstyle (4.6 KB)
and one style (ore more in the package), that creates the colors:
Fuji F49_ClassicChrome-like.dtstyle (3.0 KB)
If you want to play with the Image (CC BY-SA 4.0 License):
160506-DSCF9048-T10.RAF (32.0 MB)
160506-DSCF9048-T10.RAF.xmp (12.8 KB)
Here are the packages with all styles - one with 24 patches and one with 49 patches.
Styles_F24.zip (18.1 KB)
Styles_F49.zip (22.7 KB)
If you want to know more about my experiments with styles, you will find an article on my website - unfortunately only in German. But google translate helps.
How did you get this in styles? http://foto.zenz-home.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Auswahl_014.png
Two groups of styles.
I haven’t done it in a while as I stopped using styles for the most part but I think you use a vertical pipe symbol in the name |
Thanks
Yes!
Thanks for sharing your article and your styles…I recall Harry Durgin doing something similar back in the day with DT chart…leaving the basecurve enabled rather than disabled and finding that he got a better match when the goal was to match the jpg rather than the reference file of the color card…
Hi!
I don’t know if this thread is still active, but I need help with the RAW images from my EOS 6D Mark II. Even though I am using the “color balance rgb” module with different presets, my images look dull and as if viewed though a grey filter. I do understand that the reason for shooting RAW is not to reproduce OOC, but my RAW images certainly should not look worse than JPG. So I would be grateful if someone could help me with a set of modules and settings I could learn from.
I keep thinking that the problem starts with the input color profile, but I have not been able to find a profile specific to the 6D Mark II.
Thank you - Matthias
IMG_1617.CR2 (29.4 MB)
@matthias1 Welcome to the forum.
Not really a DT user here, but typically the solution for “dull” RAW colors (compared to a camera-produced jpg) has much to due with these settings:
Some combination of these treatments, depending on the image and the intended result, would usually go a long way in bringing a seemingly uninspiring dull RAW starting point to something closer to what a camera-generated jpg would look like.
HTH.
Thank you for the quick reply!
I usually set the exposure to at least 2 or even 2.5, otherwise the image will be really dark. I have read that others routinely do the same with different cameras, but I keep wondering if another input profile might help here. I am currently traveling and have only limited resources, but I will try to install the original Canon RAW-software in a virtual machine, hoping that it does come with an ICC profile for my camera.
The saturation and vibrance should be dealt with (correct me, if I am wrong) in the “color balance rgb” module where I routinely choose “vibrant colors”. This improves things a bit, but not enough in my opinion.
I use “filmic rgb” to adjust the dynamic range; I have watched Auréliens videos and although I cannot claim that I understood every detail, I believe that I apply correct parameters.
Something is still missing, though…
You can also try adding local contrast, or an extra correction with the color balance (e.g. extra chroma).
Because you use HTP.
Hi @matthias1, and welcome!
Something is still missing, though…
What is missing? :-)))
It is very easy to oompf up an image.
Here is one way of doing it:
The question is what you are after.
And since there are about 473 675 ways to develop an image,
it all depends on what you want to convey.
Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden
Thank you very much @Peter (I have downloaded the video and will watch it) and @Claes (this is really vibrant 
The white balance and the color calibration module show warnings that white balance was applied twice. This is something I have avoided in the past, setting the white balance only in the color calibration module. Do you recommend to ignore the warning instead?
Use the forum’s search facility 
and you will see why.
Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden
Hi Matthias!
I echo the welcome from the others.
What do you think of this one:
I haven’t applied any sharpening, which should produce a bit more crispness, but to me it looks fairly close. I made a style out of this, but haven’t been able to try on any other images from your camera obviously. I’m looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
Style for 6D MkII 1st try.dtstyle (3.9 KB)
You should probably hit the eyedropper on the filmic white relative exposure slider after applying the style, as the contrast curve in the tone equalizer pushes the highlights a bit. This was one of the main thing that got me closer to your jpg. The color zones module just shifts some hues a little, but might not be right for all images.
Edit: I used dt 4.0, the style may not work properly on 3.8 or older. Let me know if it’s a problem.
Edit No2: You can import the style to dt via the ‘styles’ panel on the right side of the lighttable view, then apply it there or in at the lower left of the darkroom view. Just in case this is useful!
If you want punchy images I came across a strategy used by a chap, I think Mark Adams … So he does the following simple steps…
Add exposure as needed. I have recently been experimenting using auto exposure on the entire image set to 60 or 65% if i am going to use filmic, I can adjust it up or down depending on how things look after adding filmic. For my smart phone I use 70% … But I find these add about the right amount. Then add default filmic settings, then local contrast at 150% of defaults and then colorbalance rgb with global chroma at 25% and global saturation at 50% ( I actually start at 20 and 40 and if its too much I just pull down vibrance to take the sting out of it)
So its just exposure filmic local contrast and colorbalance. This will be a constrasted jpg like image…
Now having said that, its a base so I add lens correction, chromatic aberration, denoise profiled chroma preset, diffuse and sharpen with dehaze preset for sharpening. If I have shadows or lighting I will introduce one or more tone eq instances…
So using that simple formula I get this for your image… (I did extract the jpg to take a look just for comparison) If you need even more then hit the image with haze removal…colors might start to go a bit crazy but it won’t be dull any longer…
EDIT…here is the post
IMG_1617.CR2.xmp (8.3 KB)
Hi @matthias1,
a easy way to combat a washed outlook is to use the “color balance rgb" module. Under the “4 ways” tab, use the slider “global offset”.
(“correct black levels” in the “exposure” module should work the same, but the slider is more finicky to me )
