Editing moments with darktable

Excellent - it all suddenly made sense now, and also makes understanding the channel mixer module so much easier as well. Thanks!

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New episode: dynamic range compression :clamp:

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A nice set of edits once again.

I noticed that the RAWs you started out with are very dark to begin with, at least (a lot) darker then those in your other moments.

These are high(er) dynamic range shots which are probably selected/shot specifically for this video, I know, and you are also toting around a D850, which doesn’t hurt when tackling dynamic range :slight_smile:

Are you willing to tell a bit more about your approach at the moment of shooting these?

Anyway: Thanks for uploading another great one!

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In fact, the D850 has very good dynamic range and you can take underexposed shots without a lot of noise during exposure compensation. The camera also has a highlight weighted metering mode, which I like to use for subjects with a wide dynamic range.

When taking pictures without that mode, I control everything manually (exposure, aperture and ISO values) and make sure that I always set an exposure value below the measured one to make sure that highlights are not overexposed.

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As a D750 owner I use that metering mode myself. If at all possible using Live view (with Exposure preview + Histogram active) and aperture mode. Very nice combo for slow and still shots.

I do believe that the D850 is a bit better in preserving the blacks when shooting underexposed, though.

Thanks for your reply, it’s always nice to read that one is on the correct path…

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Boris,

really very impressive edits and stunning how much you can lift the shadows from your D850 Raws without noise taking over. Really nice.
I realized your “Clarity” presets for local contrast, that you used in here. Would you mind telling a bit more about those presets and share them?

Great work and very good source of education as always looking at your edits … …

Cheers, Martin

Hi Martin,

Here is an article about it:

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brilliant , thx.
I knew there was something somewhere :grin:

New episode: create your own DR compression style :building_construction:

This episode is inspired by the contribution of @anon41087856:

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That style gives you a nice base-line to start your edits from.

I cannot find a reason why you did not include a base-line version of the color balance module in your drc style. I would include it, probably toned down a bit (compared to the one you used in the first edit), something like:

fulcrum: 7.5%
contrast: 15%
power factor: 15%
slope factor: 30%

This isn’t meant to be a apply-and-forget style (right?). As shown by you the exposure needs adjusting and additional modules might be required after this one is applied. You do however apply the color balance module to all of your example edits… Just curious why you did not include a cb base-line to begin with.

One thing that I would not include would be the chromatic aberrations module. In my case it does more harm then good (most of the time). Depends on the hardware that’s being used.

Anyway, I’ll stop rambling: Thanks for another nice video!

This is because the photos have different dynamic range and different initial contrast. With some of them, hardly any rework is necessary, with others, more. And also the motive plays a big role. Color balance serves for me to deal with these individual qualities. Even if I had integrated it, I would still have to make the readjustment.

Exactly. This may work well if you have a series of pictures that were taken under similar conditions, but I won’t recommend it otherwise, because you don’t always take pictures under controlled conditions (places, light, situations) to be sure that the results are predictable.

This is unfortunately necessary because the “RGB power norm” function in the “preserve chrominance” option in the filmic enhances chromatic aberration when local contrast is increased. and yes, this always depends on the lens. For me it works well in most cases.

I just watched Bruce Williams’ latest about the lens correction module when I realized something: I auto apply the lens correction and that would include a chromatic aberration correction. You do not seem to apply this module.

Me applying chromatic aberration on top of the lens correction might explain why I have bad results. Need to experiment with that to make sure though.

Thanks for the feedback.

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Exactly

Although the lens correction exists for the lens I used for the photos in the video, it is very badly made and I am not satisfied with the result. That’s why I decided not to use the correction.

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Another great video Boris.

You have another fan of your work in the house too! :slight_smile:

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Nice! :+1: :rofl:

It was one of the few moments when this little moving thing, jumping back and forth, was finally calmer and it seemed he could be caught. :smirk_cat:

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New episode: Portrait retouch :woman::

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I have spent some time lately watching your excellent and interesting videos and learned a lot.
One question: I seems to me that all your photos are rather dark before you start editing. Are you deliberately underexposing?

Yes, almost always 1 EV less than measured value. I hate overexposed photos. Unless, of course, it’s for artistic expression.

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I assume also you have a camera equipment that is providing a nice noise behavior…
So you have the actual headroom to start with underexposure to gain as much dynamic range as possible.
Last week I was doing some shoots in Frankfurt a.M. and also tried to ensure that clouds do NOT overexpose, so had quite dark starting material. I then used a workflow based on your recent DR compression style that really did provide some nice looking images.
But with my EOS 7D I also had quite some noise to kill during the edits … … …
Samples see: Frankfurt am Main - 4. Juni 2020 - Familie Anstett

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WOW! Cool collection!

Yeah, sometimes you just have to make an bracket series. But I find noise a lot more pleasant than textureless, burnt highlights, where you can hardly do anything about it.