No you should not do anything differently. ETTR is to get as much detail from the sensor into the RAW file. This is a flat scene with detail ranging from the dark green of the left hand tree to the sky in the histogram realistically 1/2 stop of detail in the dark areas would not give you anything that you would be able to see. If the scene was high contrast then the histogram would be clipped in either the left hand (dark tones) or right hand (highlights).
ETTR Raw files frequently look too light and awful, “correct exposure” gives a range of tones across the histogram and only if the dynamic range of the sensor is exceeded do you get clipping, RAW is the negative. ETTR is a principle to get the most detail in the file and only that, it doesn’t mean you are going to get a pleasing result. It’s up to you to choose to balance the contrast, darken the sky, lighten areas to lead the eyes around the frame. Frequently this means discarding detail, ETTR means you have as much digital detail possible that you can then throw away as required.
Next point. Go to your pharmacy with a memory card and make a hard copy, smallest size will do. Your camera is capable of a
- 16x11 inch print at 300 dpi, which is magazine cover quality.
- 30x20 inch print at 150 dpi, normal magazine pages
- 66x44 inches at front page of newspaper quality
get a print and look at it in your hand to align what this means in reality, what you are going to be able to get in your hands. Even with a magnifying glass you are not going to see that grain at iso 200 on anything under 16x11. Looking at a screen gives a false impression, like looking at tap water under a microscope, focus more on what you are going to get at the end. If your pictures are mainly going to be on the web, you’ll be scaling them down so grain is not an issue.
There isn’t an issue with sharpness at this aperture and any scale you are likely to reproduce the photos on the web or in the hand.