I have read that a bit in some of the research i’ve done trying to figure out which program to learn. It always surprised me too. Why would you bother editing RAWs if you are only trying to edit them to look exactly like the JPEG?
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In this thread, you will find some X-T1 and X-T3 shots, using a lot of different lenses. Most of mine were developed with darktable.:
PS: Here are some tutorials that taught me a lot:
Very much appreciated, thank you!
From the comments that you hear sometimes it would appear that many people treat the raw as a saviour thinking it doesn’t matter how bad the shot is that if they have the raw they will be able to correct it……well better than a jpg for sure but more emphasis on a good composition, focus and exposure in the first place go much further than having a raw file at your disposal…it sounds like you have an approach to it……
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Welcome fellow Fuji shooter.
I’m using X-E1, X-E2, X-T1, X-T2, X-T3, X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 files in RawTherapee with no issues at all. I also use Sony system profesionally. The demosaicing are fine and I’m loving the application. I’m also testing ART which I just found some 24 hrs ago, loving that application too, but I do miss some of the wider options RT brings to the table.
When it comes to the type of sensor, Fuji, Nikon and Sony have the same kind of sensor “in a way” and will react best to ETTR for RAW workflow. For JPEG workflow you have to shoot by what you see, or just hit PLAY and then Q to develop the JPEG in the camera manually, which I often do on all my Fujis. I would advice to shoot both JPEG and RAW, then you do ETTR if shot is important or shoot for WYSIWYG when you can live with 1. faster workflow 2. more noise if you have to save the image.
My higest recommendation as a fellow RT user who likes fast workflow is to download the HaldCLUTs that @patdavid mention on his website, and you find more of them in this forum if you do a search.
https://patdavid.net/2015/03/film-emulation-in-rawtherapee/
Best regards,
Aleksander
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I find it hard to sort out the major differences in all the Fuji cameras…if you were asked in general for the best bang for the buck which model would you recommend…xt3??? Some are Bayer and some are xtrans…I do like the look of those cameras and they seem really versatile just not sure what each step up in cost is offering? Any tips appreciated
If you watch the sales you can grab an X-T3 for $999. I think that’s a steal.
I’m sure some of the Fuji shooters here can comment with their oppinions backed by much more experience than I, but here’s what I found when I did my research to decide where to buy in.
The ‘More information’ table at the bottom does a good job showing the lineage of each camera series and which sensor they utilize.
For me, I wanted interchangeable lenses, I liked the physical interface of the X-T# cameras (as opposed to the smaller X-T##, I wanted the updated sensor and AF firmware. Between the X-T3 and X-T4 I decided that IBIS wasn’t worth it for me, mainly due to cost. The X-T3 is a great bargain right now imo.
I paid $1,500 for my X-T3, a 16-80 f/4, an SD card, and an extra battery. They’re a great deal.
Thanks s much Dylan I will have a look. I looked recently at the XS10 then the WE just came out to add to all the existing ones…
I will likely wait until I can actually get my hands on one…if this Corona business will subside
Thx Mica. I was tempted a couple of weeks ago I saw that at B&H
I posted a few images on this forum, they come from my X-T2. I also have an X-T3 now but so far I’ve mostly used it for filming music videos.
I had an X-T1 first, and it was when x-trans started to get popular, and DT and RT were starting to support this new type of sensors. Devs of both programs were really great. In the end I chose RT as the overall approach satisfied my workflow a bit more. @heckflosse did his best to improve and optimize x-trans decoding in RT.
Oh and welcome!
I have the X-S10. I just bought it less than a week ago so am I still learning how to use it. I’m also coming from the Canon ecosystem, so I’m also learning Fuji’s way of doing things, plus the whole mirrorless vs DSLR thing!
My early impressions are very positive. IBIS is amazing. And the kit lens is a cut above any kit lens I’ve ever owned. Let me know if you have any questions!
Have fun. I may take you up on that…thanks so much …very kind.
Maarten has an amazing site and his videos are about as in-depth as you can get…
THis may be of interest as well as his evaluation of the x-s10
https://www.youtube.com/c/MaartenHeilbron/videos
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Thanks, I will take a look! I might write up my thoughts at some point, which may be of some use for people moving from Canon to Fuji and/or DSLR to mirrorless. A lot has changed in the 10 years since I last bought a camera!
Maarten is a bit of a character but he does dive deep into the settings and the menus and he has quite a few videos on the x-s10 so it may provide a few tips or short-cuts
I am using mostly ART These days with the X-T3 and X-T2. I used a lot also darktble and Rawtherapee. I ended up using mostly ART just because I tend to reach faster the results I like with it.
All three are excellent photography software. I used ART less than the other two because it is newer. It’s really a though decision and so far I could not make it but on the other hand in my case it’s my aspiration to know all serious photography software well. I think it is not necessary to pick one. It does not matter which one you choose to start with. Try them, use them. Well you don’t have to pay for them so form that perspective you don’t need to choose. Of course, there are many factors to consider, e.g. hardware. If you have a pc with an Intel GPU only, perhaps darktable is not the best app for you. Or maybe you want to upgrade because of darktable? If you need clone/retouch tools often, skip RT. If you are concerned about power consuption, forget darktable.
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I finally got my new SSD in, and can gladly say I am up and running on Ubuntu 20.04
I installed darktable using the snap package since it was convenient.
I also downloaded the ART 1.8.2 .tar.xz file and extracted it. It took me a second to figure out that just executing the ART bash script would start the program. Is this the recommended way to start ART? Also, where is the recommended location in the filesystem for ART? I was thinking something like /opt/art/ would work?